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Doc Denman at Tall Green Wall Offers Technical Sport Climbing in Phantom Canyon

Canon City, Colorado United States
sport climbing
multi-pitch
bolt anchors
east-facing
technical moves
loose rock caution
Length: 150 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Doc Denman
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Doc Denman presents a concise two-pitch sport climb on Colorado's Tall Green Wall, blending technical holds with a well-bolted line. Perfect for climbers seeking focused moves and canyon views just outside Canon City."

Doc Denman at Tall Green Wall Offers Technical Sport Climbing in Phantom Canyon

Doc Denman invites climbers into a sharply focused sport climbing experience on the rugged face of Tall Green Wall within Phantom Canyon near Canon City, Colorado. This two-pitch route stretches roughly 150 feet, each pitch punctuated by well-placed bolts guiding you upward through a rock face that demands attention to subtle holds and precise footwork. The approach to the climb cuts through conifer-lined slopes that smell faintly of pine sap and earth, and the canyon around you amplifies the sounds of your gear and the mountain breeze slipping around sheer stone.

The first pitch commands roughly 100 feet of climbing and is marked by an unmistakable orange hanger—the right one of a pair on the lower section. This initial section gears you up with 10 bolts securing the line, assuring a steady rhythm as you ascend bolts spaced to balance protection and challenge. The rock here has a firm texture but warns climbers to watch for occasional loose fragments, especially just before the anchor of the second pitch. Anchoring here involves a two-bolt setup, but it’s worth noting that the rope stretch means a single 70-meter rope falls short of reaching the ground from this point.

Pitch two pushes through another 50 feet with 7 bolts locking off the vertical push, keeping the line steady as you near the top. This pitch culminates in a pair of bolts forming another solid anchor, providing a secure point for belay or rappel. The route sits on the east-facing side of the canyon, catching early sunlight and then settling into shade by mid-afternoon, making morning ascents ideal especially in hotter months.

Phantom Canyon itself is a familiar playground for climbers drawn to technical lines, offering stunning views of the Arkansas River Valley below and the surrounding rocky outcrops etched by time. The rock quality is mostly solid, but climbers should remain alert for loose rock areas that can shift unexpectedly. The Tall Green Wall area, while easily accessible from Canon City, feels remote enough to instill focus and respect for the terrain, where silence often accompanies only the steady drip of melting snow or the distant call of wildlife.

Essential gear includes a standard sport rack with quickdraws sized to match the 10 and 7 bolt layouts. Given the possibility of loose rock near anchors, a helmet is mandatory. A double rope is unnecessary here, but climbers should plan for rope management given that a single 70 meter won’t reach the ground on rappel from pitch two, which means rappelling in stages or setting an intermediate rappel.

Approach trails to Tall Green Wall are moderate, weaving through mixed forest with clear signage to the base of the climb. Allow 20 to 30 minutes to reach the trailhead parking from Canon City, and bring plenty of water—the dry Colorado air can dehydrate faster than expected. Footwear with sticky rubber will greatly assist on the small edges and pockets characterizing this route. Timing your climb early in the day avoids afternoon heat and possible thunderstorms common in summer.

The descent from Doc Denman demands caution: rappelling from the second anchor is a two-stage process due to rope length constraints. Ensure your rope setup accommodates this, or be prepared for downclimbing sections that require confidence on exposed ledges. The area is generally safe but vigilance in route-finding on the descent will soften the risk.

Doc Denman is perfect for climbers looking to sharpen their sport climbing skills in a setting brimming with classic Colorado canyon vibes—balance of solid protection, technical-movement, and an environment that encourages a quiet connection with the stone and sky. For those who respect the canyon’s demands, this climb leaves a lasting impression without overstating the difficulty, making it rewarding for intermediate climbers ready to step up their game.

Climber Safety

Loose rock near the second pitch anchor requires climbers to wear helmets and test holds carefully. The rappel from the top anchor cannot be completed in a single 70m rope length, increasing exposure on descent if not properly planned.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches2
Length150 feet

Local Tips

Start early to enjoy cooler temperatures and avoid afternoon canyon heat.

Wear a helmet and watch for loose rock near the second pitch anchor.

Bring at least a 60m rope for easier rappel or plan a two-stage rappel with a 70m rope.

Stickier climbing shoes help with the small edges and pockets on the route.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, Doc Denman balances straightforward bolt protection with technical climbing that demands precise footwork and composure. The grade feels true to the standard for this type of moderate multi-pitch sport climb, with no artificial softening. Loose rock around anchors adds an element of caution that slightly raises the mental game.

Gear Requirements

The route is fully bolted with 10 bolts on pitch one and 7 on pitch two, both pitches ending in 2-bolt anchors. A 70m rope is insufficient for a single rappel from the top anchor; plan accordingly.

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Tags

sport climbing
multi-pitch
bolt anchors
east-facing
technical moves
loose rock caution