"D.M.Z. offers a focused 70-foot trad climb on the granite walls of Gong Show. A crisp finger crack paired with tricky face moves makes this route ideal for climbers looking to sharpen their crack technique while enjoying a compact, efficient ascent."
Rising from the rugged contours of California’s Sierra Eastside, the D.M.Z. route on Gong Show Wall delivers a concise burst of traditional climbing that demands both precision and a practiced touch. This 70-foot pitch is anchored by a sharp finger crack that pulls you upward, balanced by delicate face moves that inject variety and subtle challenge. From the moment you launch off the solid slab where the Main Attraction route ends, the climb asserts its character: technical, focused, and rewarding.
The ascent begins with a short scramble over an off-width section—a physical prelude calling for steady footwork and patience. Beyond this initial hurdle, you'll settle onto a ledge that offers a brief chance to recalibrate, a quiet pause before the route introduces its main body. Hand jams usher you steadily upward, their tactile demands punctuated by an obvious rest where you can recover breath and grip.
The finger crack is the centerpiece here. It’s not an endless seam but rather a rhythm of intermittent opportunities, where locking off and coaxing your fingers into tight placements are strategies that pay off. As you near the top, face holds invite a subtle dance, pushing you smoothly past the last few meters to reach the belay station pinned back slightly on the edge. This position provides a stable anchor for both lead and second, with solid gear placements throughout that favor protection up to one inch.
This route’s crux emerges in the transition between the hand jam section and the finger jam moves, where strength meets technique. It doesn’t bellow difficulty loud but demands finesse, making it a satisfying test for those who appreciate controlled, mindful climbing rather than brute force. Climbers familiar with moderate 5.10 traditions will find D.M.Z. a well-balanced offering—neither over-graded nor easy, firmly within its rating but carrying the compact punch of a climb packed with details.
Approaching the climb involves a short trail that ascends through rocky outcrops and sparse vegetation typical of the Sierra Eastside terrain. Access is straightforward from the Rock Creek area in Mammoth Lakes; expect well-worn paths and a manageable trek that takes about 20 minutes to reach the base. The wall faces north-northwest, granting shade during the warmer midday hours and making spring through fall the ideal seasons for an ascent. The granite here is textured yet solid, a trustworthy canvas for placing gear and trusting your holds.
Preparation for D.M.Z. should include a double rack of traditional gear up to 1 inch, with an emphasis on secure, precise placements. The route’s protection is reliable but not generous; attention to detail when gear hunting translates directly to safety and peace of mind. Footwear with sticky rubber and a comfortable fit will support the delicate edging and friction moves on the face, while hydration is essential given the dry air and elevation near 7,500 feet.
Once at the top, the descent is straightforward by carefully downclimbing the slab or rappelling from fixed anchors. Awareness is crucial here—slabs can be deceptive, and loose rock is minimal but present. This manageable retreat caps a route that embodies the essence of concentrated traditional climbing: engaging, accessible, and authentically Sierra Eastside.
Watch for occasional loose rock on the off-width section near the start and exercise extra caution when downclimbing the slab to avoid slips. Proper gear placement is key, especially around the crux finger jam area.
Approach from Rock Creek trailhead—expect about 20 minutes on a well-maintained trail.
Start early to take advantage of mid-morning shade on the north-facing wall.
Double rack up to 1 inch for reliable protection placements.
Downclimb with caution; slabs can be slippery when wet and hold loose rock near the top.
A straightforward trad rack with doubles up to 1 inch is necessary. The placement opportunities are solid but require careful attention, especially through the crux finger jam section. Fixed gear anchors assist in establishing a secure belay at the top edge.
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