"Dixie Variation offers a focused 95-foot single pitch in Angeles National Forest, weaving along a sharp arete with varied pockets and a key crux under a large white block. Ideal for intermediate sport climbers honing technique and endurance."
The Dixie Variation carves a distinctive line through the bold face of the Temple of Ishtar within the Angeles National Forest, offering climbers a tangible taste of California’s rugged vertical playground. This single-pitch sport climb stretches 95 feet along a striking arete, where the rock’s texture shifts from red-hued bolts to a sharply contrasting white block, challenging you to navigate a route that demands both balance and controlled precision. As you ascend, the layered pockets and features of the wall play against your hands, making each move a measured interaction with the stone. The route’s first two bolts, marked by deep red and maroon hangers, mark your entry into the climb’s rhythm, before a sweeping move rightward guides you under a prominent white block that guards the crux zone. Here, clipping the third bolt requires careful arm extension or a thoughtful long sling to manage rope drag, underscoring the importance of technique and preparation. Past this point, the broad arete opens the wall’s characteristics fully, with pockets and edges that demand steady footwork and body positioning as you trace the line toward the anchors above.
Located within the Angeles National Forest, this climb benefits from a relatively accessible approach through the Texas Canyon area, tucked into the eastern edge of the Los Angeles Basin. The rock’s texture is predominantly solid, featuring 10 fixed bolts and a two-ring Fixe anchor system bolstered by experienced route setting. This bolting setup favors a confident lead, though climbers should be prepared for the specifics of rope management due to the route’s line and occasional need for extending draws. The climb’s 5.8 rating signals moderate technical challenges, appealing to intermediate climbers looking to build endurance and hone their ability on vertical, pocketed faces.
For those planning a visit, timing your climb to avoid midday heat—especially in summer months—will ensure a safer and more comfortable experience. Early morning or late afternoon sessions grant shade on key sections and also allow the forest’s cooler breezes to temper the Southern California sun. Footwear with sensitive edging will enhance grip on the varied textures found on the arete, and a moderate hydration pack is advised given the dry environment and hike-in conditions.
The Temple of Ishtar area rewards visitors with not only quality climbing but also a quiet refuge from urban bustle just a drive from Los Angeles. Surrounding trails offer shaded forest paths full of pine and scrub, grounding the climbing experience in an accessible slice of nature’s sharp contrasts. Whether you’re dialing in your sport lead skills or seeking a solid 5.8 to test movement and endurance, Dixie Variation is a climb that ushers you into the heart of Southern California’s granite challenges with straightforward, reliable protection and a compelling vertical narrative.
Watch for potential rope drag near the third bolt due to the route’s trajectory around a sizable white block—using long slings or cleaning back can reduce strain. Pay attention to your footing on the pocketed arete, as some holds may feel sharp or tricky underfoot.
Start early or late in the day to avoid the strong afternoon sun on the wall.
Bring sensitive climbing shoes to negotiate the varied pocketed holds.
Prepare long slings to manage rope drag around the large white block feature.
Stay hydrated—carry enough water for the hike and climb due to dry forest conditions.
Equipped with 10 bolts and a two-ring Fixe anchor, this climb requires attention to rope drag, especially near the third bolt where long slings or back cleaning come into play.
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