"Ditch Witch offers a focused 25-foot trad climb on the upper tier of AFPA Rock, challenging you with a tight crack and right-facing corner just above Which Bitch. It's a perfect introduction to Joshua Tree’s textured sandstone with gear placements up to blue Camalot."
Ditch Witch sits quietly on the upper tier of AFPA Rock within Joshua Tree National Park’s Quail Springs Area, offering climbers an accessible yet engaging challenge. This one-pitch trad climb spans approximately 25 feet and showcases a crack and right-facing corner that demand both technique and a steady foot. The ascent begins as you step onto a jutting block, confronting a crack that quickly tightens near a distinct ceiling. Navigating past this bulge requires a blend of balance and precise hand jams, coaxing you upward along the pillar’s edge toward the summit.
The sandstone here wears the heritage of Joshua Tree’s desert climbs—rough yet surprisingly inviting under your fingers, with texture that both demands respect and rewards persistence. The crack offers solid placements for gear, accommodating protection up to a blue Camalot. While the gear rack isn’t extensive, careful placement is crucial to maintain security on this route’s more exposed sections.
Approach to Ditch Witch is straightforward, perched above the more trafficked Which Bitch climb. The trail up AFPA Rock is marked by scrappy vegetation and loose footing common to the desert environment. It’s a short walk rife with the smell of dry earth and distant creosote, and the early morning sun casts long shadows across the pillar, tempering the desert heat while highlighting the climb’s features.
Climbers should prepare for a modest descent from the pillar’s top, where getting off involves some careful handholds and a bit of route-finding. The summit isn’t a wide ledge—space is limited, so every foothold matters as you make your way down or prepare for the next ascent.
Whether you’re sharpening your crack skills or seeking a concise, engaging climb to fit into a day at Joshua Tree, Ditch Witch offers a balanced experience. Its approachable grade makes it welcoming for those confident on 5.8 terrain, while the desert setting immerses you in an iconic climbing atmosphere. Carry enough water to beat the dry air, and aim for cooler parts of the day to avoid heat-driven fatigue. Solid footwear and a moderate rack up to a blue Camalot complete the essentials. This route stands out not only for its crack climbing but for the quiet sense of isolation that Joshua Tree’s upper tier climbs bring—away from busier walls, revealing the desert’s slower, patient rhythm.
Summit space is limited and involves negotiating a few tenuous handholds for descent. Exercise caution during exit and test all holds carefully due to occasional loose or fractured sandstone around the top.
Approach early to avoid desert heat and enjoy softened shadows on the rock.
Bring footwear with sticky soles to manage the sandy, textured sandstone surface.
Watch for loose rock near the summit; test handholds before committing.
Hydrate thoroughly—Joshua Tree’s dry air can quickly sap energy even on short climbs.
Pack a standard trad rack with gear up to a blue Camalot. Small to medium cam placements are reliable, but be prepared for some careful adjustments around the ceiling section. The rock quality supports solid, if not abundant, pro.
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