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Dirty Mary: A Direct Line on Mary’s Bust in Big Thompson Canyon

Estes Park, Colorado United States
moderate
sport
single pitch
granite
pendulum risk
Big Thompson Canyon
Length: 60 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Dirty Mary
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Dirty Mary offers a straightforward, 60-foot sport climb on Mary’s Bust’s main buttress in Big Thompson Canyon. Its direct line and secure bolt anchors make it an appealing choice for climbers looking to combine moderate challenge with swift ascent in a stunning mountain setting."

Dirty Mary: A Direct Line on Mary’s Bust in Big Thompson Canyon

Dirty Mary stakes a direct claim on the rugged face of Mary’s Bust, cutting a clean line up the main buttress for 60 feet of moderate climbing. Situated within the dramatic contours of Big Thompson Canyon, this single-pitch sport route offers an accessible challenge for those looking to carve an efficient ascent with some character. The climb angles diagonally up and left, anchored securely by eight bolts leading to fixed anchors. Its straightforward nature belies subtle complexity, especially in the finishing moves where the hold of the last bolt demands attention to maintain balance before clipping the anchors.

Approaching Dirty Mary, the landscape frames you with steep canyon walls that funnel light and wind, creating a dynamic atmosphere where the rock seems to respond to the day’s shifts. The granite here feels solid yet alive under your fingertips, grainy in sections, smooth in others, offering a tactile dialogue with each move. The surrounding forest periodically stretches into view, its ever-present pine scent blending with the canyon’s earthy undertones.

For climbers, Dirty Mary serves well as a practical warm-up or as a refreshing alternative to the nearby "There’s Something About Mary" climb. Its bolt placements encourage confident movement, but a cautious cleaner will recognize the potential for a pendulum swing towards the hillside when retrieving the last piece of gear on rappel or cleaning from above. Staying alert to this hazard ensures a smooth descent.

In terms of logistics, the route’s single pitch of 60 feet can be completed swiftly, making it ideal for days packed with multiple climbs or scouting new lines across the Mary’s Bust area. The primary gear needed is a sport rack and a standard set of quickdraws; the bolt spacing is comfortably moderate, accommodating climbers who prefer to manage energy efficiently without scrambling for cryptic holds.

The route’s position in the Estes Park Valley brings advantages of accessible parking and a well-maintained dirt trail leading into the canyon, a brief 15-minute hike that unfurls along gentle inclines shaded intermittently by towering evergreens. Climbers can expect seasonal shifts in temperature—shade from the rock face often provides respite during sunny afternoons in summer, while autumn light casts a warm glow that enhances the canyon’s natural textures.

Overall, Dirty Mary offers a balanced experience: simple in structure but engaging enough to test technique and composure. It stands as a dependable choice for climbers seeking a route that merges approachable difficulty with the enduring appeal of Big Thompson’s scenic grit.

Climber Safety

Beware of the significant pendulum swing potential when cleaning or rappelling from the last bolt—ensure controlled clipping and retrieval to avoid any unintended impact with the hillside.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Approach trail is easy to follow and takes about 15 minutes from parking.

Wear sturdy shoes with good edging for granite texture.

Clip draws efficiently to conserve energy on moderately spaced bolts.

Be cautious when cleaning the last bolt to prevent swinging into the hillside.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 grade here feels straightforward for those comfortable on sport routes of similar grades, with well-spaced bolts that encourage fluid movement. The crux isn’t overly taxing but demands steady footwork and composure especially near the top draw where balance is critical.

Gear Requirements

Eight bolts crown the pitch, offering reliable protection up to the anchors. Quickdraws and a sport rack suffice, though attention is needed when cleaning to avoid pendulum swings on rappel.

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Tags

moderate
sport
single pitch
granite
pendulum risk
Big Thompson Canyon