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Dirty Hairy at Shady Lady: A Classic 5.9 Trad Challenge

South Lake Tahoe, California USA
corner crack
flake finish
single pitch
well protected
east facing
Lake Tahoe trad
Length: 130 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Dirty Hairy
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Dirty Hairy is a standout single-pitch trad climb at Shady Lady, offering 130 feet of engaging corner cracks and a distinctive flake finish. Perfect for 5.9 trad climbers looking for a well-protected challenge with stunning California backdrops."

Dirty Hairy at Shady Lady: A Classic 5.9 Trad Challenge

Rising boldly on the iconic Shady Lady wall, Dirty Hairy invites climbers into a focused encounter with granite that demands attention and respect. This single-pitch 130-foot route cuts a clean corner line that demands precise gear placement and steady movement. From the moment your fingers grip the textured granite, you’re drawn into a vertical rhythm—each move a conversation between climber and rock. The route’s defining feature is its striking corner, where you’ll navigate an interplay of cracks and flakes, culminating in an elegant exit through a distinct flake formation. The crack’s offering allows steady, secure protecting opportunities, making it a reliable challenge that rewards thoughtful gear management. As you ascend, the granite’s rough surface conveys a tactile story—cool and solid underfoot even on warmer days, while the angle favors balance and positioning over brute force.

This climb’s appeal stems not just from its technical demands but from the immediate visual reward at the top: sweeping views back towards the Highway 50 Corridor and Lake Tahoe’s forested hills beyond. The route is a favorite among local trad climbers for good reason—it balances approachable difficulty with a clean, logical line that feels satisfying to send. Expect to place a full rack of nuts, doubling up to 2-inch sizes and including a single 3-inch piece, as protection is plentiful yet requires knowing your gear well. The anchor is solid, with slings and carabiners positioned for an efficient belay and rappel.

Plan your approach carefully: Shady Lady’s access trail is straightforward and well-worn, providing an approximate 20-minute hike from the staging area. The climb faces east, catching morning light early while offering some shade in the afternoon, making spring and fall ideal windows to avoid heat. Wearing sturdy, sticky shoes with excellent toe sensitivity will help you master the subtle placements along the crack system. Hydration is key—there’s limited shade on the approach but the climb itself provides moments of respite amidst the granite’s relief.

Dirty Hairy shines as a quintessential Lake Tahoe trad outing—an accessible yet demanding route where climbers sharpen crack skills and enjoy a direct line framed by natural features. With careful attention to gear and respect for the rock’s texture, this climb is a rewarding way to test your 5.9 trad game and soak in the rugged beauty of the Highway 50 Corridor’s climbing landscape.

Climber Safety

Though well protected, Dirty Hairy rewards cautious gear placement—loose pro or missed placements could lead to longer falls. The top anchor is solid but be mindful of rope drag on the flake exit. Seasonal thunderstorms and hot sun can add risks; approach with hydration and timing in mind.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length130 feet

Local Tips

Approach trail takes about 20 minutes from the parking; stay on the clear path.

Start early to catch morning light on the climb’s east-facing wall.

Bring sticky shoes with good edging ability for precise crack movements.

Double-check your rack, especially smaller nuts, as the route demands careful protection.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:This 5.9 rating sits true to the guidebook description, with a balanced challenge that isn’t softened but feels fair. The crux is located near the flake exit, where precise foot placement and confident gear choices come into play. Compared to nearby routes in Lover's Leap, Dirty Hairy is a solid test of crack climbing fundamentals without overly stiff or sustained difficulty.

Gear Requirements

Carry a full rack of nuts, doubling up to 2-inch sizes, plus one 3-inch piece. The route offers generous placements, but solid footwork and careful pro placement are essential. A gear anchor with slings and a carabiner is fixed right at the top for belay and rap.

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Tags

corner crack
flake finish
single pitch
well protected
east facing
Lake Tahoe trad