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Dirtbaggers at The Courtyard: A Technical Sport Climb in Squamish

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
technical
crux high
sport
single pitch
granite
Squamish
Length: 60 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Dirtbaggers
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Dirtbaggers offers a focused 60-foot sport climb in Squamish’s The Courtyard, blending technical moves with a high crux that demands full commitment. Perfect for climbers eager for a short yet precise challenge on solid granite."

Dirtbaggers at The Courtyard: A Technical Sport Climb in Squamish

Dirtbaggers invites climbers into a focused, sharp-edged ascent carved into the dramatic granite of The Courtyard, tucked along Mamquam Forest Service Road in Squamish, British Columbia. This single-pitch, 60-foot sport climb challenges your technique and composure, delivering a sustained push punctuated by a demanding crux high on the wall. The route shares its opening sequence with its neighbor, Homeless, but diverges after the third bolt into a steeper, more technical finale that demands precise footwork and steady breathing.

Rock here is solid and clean, characterized by small crimps and delicate edges that test grip strength and body tension. The bolts are well spaced, encouraging careful gear clipping and smooth transitions between moves. The granite's cool texture under your fingertips provides good friction, but the technical nature of Dirtbaggers requires climbers to commit fully once they pass the third bolt. The climb challenges confidence as much as physical strength—hesitation can make the upper crux feel harder.

Squamish’s mountain air carries hints of cedar and damp earth, while the surrounding trees frame the climb with rugged tranquility. The Courtyard offers a relatively accessible approach on a well-maintained trail along Mamquam FSR, making Dirtbaggers an excellent option for climbers wanting a focused sport route that blends technical demands with beautiful forest surroundings.

Gear up with sport climbing essentials; quickdraws work best here, as the bolt line is clean and your protection straightforward. Because this route is under 70 feet, one rope length is sufficient but choose suitable length for rappel or walk-off descent options.

Early morning or late afternoon are sweet spots for climbing Dirtbaggers, with shade drifting across the wall in the cooler hours. Summers bring dry rock and stable conditions, while wetter seasons may render the granite slippery and less safe.

Whether you’re honing your 5.10 technique or looking for a challenging checkpoint on a Squamish trip, Dirtbaggers delivers a concise dose of vertical tension and a taste of the local climbing style that Pacific Northwest granite demands.

Climber Safety

While bolts are well-placed, the upper crux contains small holds that can feel insecure if not committed fully—hesitation can increase risk of falls. Be cautious on the granite surface after rain as it can get slick, especially near the start.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Approach via Mamquam FSR; trail is steady but watch for slippery roots in wet weather.

Start early to avoid heat on the exposed sections of the climb.

Ensure quickdraws are extended for clipping the higher bolts to avoid rope drag.

After the climb, descend by a short walk off the top; no rappel needed.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10d rating reflects a route that feels stiff mainly because the crux appears late in the climb, requiring sustained concentration on smaller holds. Compared to other Squamish sport climbs at this grade, Dirtbaggers leans more on precise footwork over dynamic moves, making it a solid test for those refining technique at this level.

Gear Requirements

Well-spaced bolts secure the route throughout, so bring a standard sport rack with quickdraws. Packers appreciate solid clipping due to the technical crux near the top that demands unbroken focus.

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Tags

technical
crux high
sport
single pitch
granite
Squamish