HomeClimbingDirectissime

Directissime Climb in Laurentians, Quebec

Labedan, Canada
technical face
vertical crack
trad climbing
single pitch
5.9
Laurentians
Length: 85 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Directissime
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Directissime offers a focused trad climb in Quebec’s Laurentians, blending technical face moves with a striking vertical crack. Ideal for 5.9 climbers, it challenges your gear placement skills while rewarding with steady, engaging climbing on solid northern rock."

Directissime Climb in Laurentians, Quebec

Directissime offers a succinct yet engaging traditional climb that challenges with its technical face moves before settling into a vertical crack section. Situated in the Laurentians, just outside the small town of Labedan, this 85-foot route demands careful footwork and a steady hand. The climb begins with a series of precise moves along the face, where hold selection can be subtle and placements aren't always obvious, compelling climbers to stay alert and deliberate. As you progress, the vertical crack emerges, inviting protection placements that provide a sense of security amid the exposure.

The area itself is characterized by the crisp northern air and the quiet hum of a forest slowly waking around the stone face. The rock is solid but requires thoughtful protection due to several placements being slightly blind, adding a layer of mental engagement alongside the physical effort. This climb is ideal for those comfortable on 5.9 terrain who want to refine their crack climbing skills with a route that balances adventure with approachability.

Approach to Directissime is straightforward, with a short hike that allows a gradual mental preparation before the climb. A standard rack will suffice for protection, emphasizing the traditional nature of the route. The climb’s modest length and single pitch format make it a perfect introduction to lead trad climbing in the Laurentians, or a rewarding quick sit-in for more seasoned climbers aiming to sharpen their precision and gear placements.

Weather in Quebec can be variable, so timing is key. Late spring through early fall offers the best conditions, with stable temperatures and dry rock. Early morning ascents provide cool shade and quiet, while afternoons bring warmer sun to the wall. Climbers should prepare for the possibility of occasional moist patches, especially after rains, which can affect grip and safety.

With a rating of 5.9 PG13, Directissime sits comfortably on the cusp of moderate difficulty, requiring some commitment but rewarding with satisfying climbing and a manageable protection challenge. It’s a neat climb that encourages focus on technique and situational awareness. Whether you’re tuning your crack skills or simply seeking a climb that demands attention without overwhelming complexity, Directissime is a straightforward choice that won't disappoint.

Safety is paramount: since some placements are harder to spot, climbers should double-check gear and communicate clearly with their belayer, ensuring a secure ascent. This route showcases the beauty of traditional climbing—interaction with rock, calculated risks, and the quiet reward of conservation-minded outdoor adventure.

Climber Safety

Some protection spots are not visible from the climbing stance, demanding deliberate placements and thorough gear checks. Be cautious of slippery rock patches following precipitation, and always secure your belayer communication on lead.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length85 feet

Local Tips

Approach early in the day to benefit from cooler temperatures and less sun exposure.

Inspect each gear placement carefully—some holds and cracks demand extra vigilance.

Dry conditions greatly improve grip; avoid climbing after rain or heavy dew.

Communicate clearly with your belayer, especially when navigating the technical moves.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 PG13 rating suits climbers comfortable with moderate difficulty but aware of potential challenges from occasionally blind gear spots. The route doesn't feel overly stiff but requires solid technique and steady gear judgment for a confident send. Compared to similar climbs in the Laurentians, it stands out for its concise length and focus on technical face climbing leading into a crack finish.

Gear Requirements

A standard trad rack covers the protection needs here, but attention is required for some placements that are less visible. Prepare medium to small cams and a solid set of nuts to maximize security.

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Tags

technical face
vertical crack
trad climbing
single pitch
5.9
Laurentians