Perched on the rugged north face of The Maiden, the Direct North Face route offers a compact yet demanding trad climb that carves out a distinct line just beneath the imposing West Overhang and the Crow’s Nest. This two-pitch ascent covers roughly 120 feet of vertical terrain, perfectly suited for climbers seeking a route that rewards with technical moves and solid gear placements while providing a gateway to some of the Flatirons’ more challenging extensions.

From the ground, the climb’s defining feature is a bold, peeling flake looming on the right margin of the north wall. This natural structure is both your guide and anchor point. The first pitch engages lie-backs and hand jams that keep the rhythm steady but engaging — expect to move fluidly, placing reliable protection along hand-sized cracks flanking the flake. Reach the top of this flake for an excellent belay stance, a spot favored for those wanting to top rope the nearby Cunning Stunt, a sharp 11a overhanging crack that tests finger strength and precision.

Beyond pitch one, the second pitch veers left, inviting you to follow a clean, right-leaning diagonal break. Here, protection thins out as the pitch builds toward a committing 5.9 R crux — a delicate hand traverse with minimal footholds, demanding unshakable focus and control. Above the crux, a piton marks a key protection point, and you’ll pass through a couple of small overhangs before the terrain eases. The route culminates at the Crow’s Nest, a natural ledge offering sweeping views across Boulder’s landscape and a strategic exit or link to further climbs like the North Face’s third pitch or the West Overhang.

Approach is straightforward but mindful. The route sits along the north side of The Maiden, slightly west of the Crow’s Nest. The path winds through forested slopes with occasional rocky patches — plan on a 20-minute hike from the main Flatirons trailhead. This access sets you up to experience the cliff’s character without unnecessary slog, perfectly blending adventure with efficiency.

For gear, standard rack setups calibrated for solid placement are critical. The flake provides excellent pro opportunities early on, but protection becomes sparse on pitch two. Leave no gear behind during rap descents; the route mandates rappelling off the Crow’s Nest, where a single 60-meter rope suffices to reach the ground. Weather and timing also factor heavily — north-facing walls can stay cool and shaded much of the day, so aim for warmer months or midday climbs for comfort.

This route challenges the mindset as much as the body, testing route-finding and trad skills with a hint of runout that adds flavor without overwhelming risk. Whether you’re topping out for a quick send or extending into neighboring routes, the Direct North Face captures the spirit of the Flatirons’ bold verticality — immediate, unforgiving, and thrilling.

If you’re after a climb that blends technical sequences with direct exposure and a scenic backdrop, this line checks all the boxes while offering practical staging for longer adventures in Boulder’s iconic granite playground.