HomeClimbingDinah Moe Humm

Dinah Moe Humm: Technical Trad Challenge at Joe's Garage

Welsford, Canada
technical slab
boulder problem crux
extended runners
trad protection
single pitch
Joe's Garage
New Brunswick
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Dinah Moe Humm
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Dinah Moe Humm twists off the familiar and dares climbers into a technical slab peppered with a challenging boulder problem. With a mix of bolt protection and careful trad placements, it delivers a precise, powerful experience at Joe's Garage in New Brunswick."

Dinah Moe Humm: Technical Trad Challenge at Joe's Garage

Dinah Moe Humm demands you step beyond the familiar route of Check Your Prostate and carve your own path up a demanding face at Joe's Garage. This single-pitch climb, tucked into the rugged Cochrane Lane Cliffs near Welsford, New Brunswick, offers a compact yet intense test for trad climbers ready to push their limits on a technical slab that doesn’t forgive hesitation.

From the approach, you can expect the sharp scent of spruce mingling with the mid-summer freshness of cool air that slips through the forested slopes grading up to the cliff. The rock here feels solid beneath your fingers, but the route requires precise gear placement and careful reading of the sequence. Rather than veering right to the usual bolted anchor beneath the roof, move left and engage a carefully protected boulder problem that challenges both strength and finesse.

The climb features three bolts guarding the most demanding moves, but the heart of the protection relies on traditional gear placements on the moderately difficult terrain above and below the roof. Extend your runners well below the roof to minimize rope drag and keep your protection trustworthy as you execute a striking move to clip a high bolt. The transition to the slab above introduces a welcome rhythm, where technique and balance replace brute strength. The slab requires steady footwork and mental focus—once over the boulder problem crux, the terrain eases and rewards you with a chance to breathe and prepare for the final moves.

At roughly 100 feet, the pitch is compact but intense, packing a 5.12a PG13 rating that speaks to the technical challenge intertwined with carefully spaced protection. The climb strikes a rare harmony between the push of hard trad moves and the security of bolts placed at critical crux sequences.

Locals appreciate that Dinah Moe Humm is as much about tactical gear management as climbing skill. The route sits within Joe's Garage, an area known for steep walls and technical routes that test both your physical and mental endurance. This is not a casual climb; preparation is key. Work on your slab technique and long reach moves in advance, and be ready to adjust your pro placements dynamically. The rock’s slightly rough texture means your shoes should be snug for confident edging without sacrificing comfort.

The setting itself is quietly dramatic. Cochrane Lane Cliffs is a wilderness zone with a silence that lets the crackle of your chalk and the scrape of your shoes harmonize with the rustling fir branches above. The sun moves quickly across the face, making morning or late afternoon ideal to avoid intense heat and glare. Spring and fall bring crisp air and fewer bugs, perfect for focused sends.

A straightforward descent via a bolted rappel allows a clean getaway after the route. The anchor is solid and well-maintained, but ensure your ropes clear the roof and that your slings and carabiners are in check. Approach trails are well-marked but uneven; sturdy footwear and awareness of loose rock on the path will keep your hike in control.

Dinah Moe Humm is a demanding trad climb that offers a taste of technical mastery on premium granite, with a boulder problem crux that thrills and a slab topout that rewards measured precision. It’s ideal for those ready to challenge themselves on a route where each move counts and every piece of gear is part of the strategy. Come ready to climb sharp, think smart, and experience a compelling slice of New Brunswick climbing at its finest.

Climber Safety

Gear placements below the roof must be generously extended to avoid rope drag and gear pulling. The rock is sound but expect some runout sections on the slab; maintain cautious movement and don't rush the delicate high clips.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Approach early or late in the day to avoid direct sun glare on the slab.

Use stiff-soled climbing shoes for precise edging on the slab section.

Carry a full rack with small to medium cams for tricky trad placements.

Check your slings and carabiners before the rappel; the anchor is reliable but needs proper setup.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.12a PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.12a PG13 rating reflects a climb that demands sharp technique combined with judicious gear placement. The route feels stiff due to the combination of a physical boulder problem and the mental game of managing sporadic protection. Compared to nearby routes at Joe's Garage, Dinah Moe Humm sits at the higher end of technical difficulty but rewards precision and composure.

Gear Requirements

Expect a mix of traditional gear placements with three strategically placed bolts protecting the crux moves. Be sure to extend runners extensively below the roof to reduce rope drag and maintain solid protection throughout the technical slab.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Dinah Moe Humm and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

technical slab
boulder problem crux
extended runners
trad protection
single pitch
Joe's Garage
New Brunswick