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Dihedral Crack: Upper Falls Trad Challenge in Sierra Eastside

Bishop, California United States
hand crack
finger crack
dihedral
desert climbing
trad gear
short pitch
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Dihedral Crack
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Dihedral Crack offers a focused trad climb through a striking hand to finger crack beneath a sunlit dihedral in Upper Falls. This 50-foot pitch combines solid crack climbing with manageable protection, making it a dependable option for those seeking a concise desert trad experience."

Dihedral Crack: Upper Falls Trad Challenge in Sierra Eastside

Dihedral Crack cuts a clean line through the sun-baked rockfaces of Upper Falls, offering climbers a concise but satisfying trad route that tests crack technique and mental focus. This 50-foot pitch threads a hand to wide finger crack stuck precisely in a shadowed dihedral just left of the tunnel—an inviting feature that calls climbers to engage a range of jamming skills. Above the main crack, the terrain softens into easier scrambling, providing a welcome breather before topping out where the views open to the rugged Sierra Eastside landscape. The rock here is firm and textured, with enough natural friction to boost confidence on each move. Expect desert heat during midday; morning or late afternoon ascents balance shade and warmth perfectly. This route keeps protection straightforward—standard trad gear will cover the placements, and the variety of cracks encourages thoughtful anchor building. Approaching the climb involves a short hike over well-defined paths peppered with sun-baked sagebrush and rocky steps, setting the tone for an immersive desert climb experience. Whether tapping into crack climbing fundamentals or simply soaking in the expansive terrain, Dihedral Crack provides a practical and rewarding outing that blends adventure with clear, manageable logistics. Hydration and sun protection are essential as you prepare—the quiet energy of Upper Falls demands respect and readiness in equal measure.

Climber Safety

Rock in the dihedral is generally stable, but loose rock can sometimes appear near the tunnel’s edge. Take care during anchoring to avoid placing gear in questionable seams. The area’s remote desert setting means you should be prepared for limited cell reception and rapid weather changes.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid peak desert heat and enjoy cooler rock conditions.

Bring ample water and sunscreen—shade is limited on the approach and route.

Check weather forecasts; summer thunderstorms can appear quickly in the Sierra Eastside.

Wear climbing shoes suited for crack climbing to maximize jamming comfort and control.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating here reflects a firm difficulty that demands solid crack technique, especially in the hand-to-finger size range. The grade feels true to standard Sierra Eastside climbs, with no hidden crux but continuous engagement. Climbers comfortable on moderate cracks will find this route straightforward yet satisfying compared to longer, more sustained routes in the region.

Gear Requirements

Standard rack covers the protection needs here. Be ready for placements ranging from hand to wide finger sizes within the dihedral crack, which provides secure gear spots throughout the pitch.

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Tags

hand crack
finger crack
dihedral
desert climbing
trad gear
short pitch