HomeClimbingDigging For Gold

Digging For Gold

Holyrood, Canada
finger crack
bulge
single pitch
trad gear
granite
Holyrood
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Digging For Gold
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A single-pitch trad climb carving a route along tight finger cracks and a subtle bulge. Digging For Gold offers a punchy session on Holyrood’s Main Wall, blending accessible protection with demanding hand jams in a quiet coastal setting."

Digging For Gold

Digging For Gold invites climbers into a straightforward yet satisfying stretch of rock on the Main Wall in Holyrood. This single-pitch route offers a solid introduction to trad climbing in Newfoundland’s rugged landscape. Starting just 20 feet left of the well-known Thin Blue Line, the climb begins on a small ledge beside a modest stump, setting the scene for a focused push upward. The initial moves lead leftward along a horizontal finger crack, inviting careful hand placements as the rock tests your patience and precision. The route then shifts directly upward to a lone bolt before veering right, where two narrow finger cracks await with a bulging section that demands attention and steady technique. Once past this physical crux, the rock eases, allowing a measured ascent to a comfortable anchor point.

The route spans roughly 100 feet — long enough to feel like a commitment but compact enough for climbers wanting a sharp burst of solid trad climbing. Protection is straightforward but necessitates a rack including cams up to three inches, with a particular focus on finger-sized pieces to negotiate the narrow cracks effectively. This gear setup prepares you for the subtle challenges the climb presents without overburdening your rack.

The location on Holyrood’s Main Wall offers a raw edge to Newfoundland’s climbing scene. The granite here is textured and reliable, providing confidence in holds and placements alike. Climbers experience the tactile sensation of fine grain underhand jams and the grip of finger cracks that challenge both strength and finesse. The surroundings are quiet, punctuated by the occasional rustle of wind or the distant calls of native birds, adding a serene backdrop to the concentration needed on the rock.

For those planning to take on Digging For Gold, timing your ascent during daylight hours when the wall catches the sun makes the experience both safer and more comfortable. Avoid wet or icy conditions, as the rock can become stealthily slick in damp weather. The approach is accessible but requires awareness of local terrain to ensure a smooth arrival and departure. This climb is a concise, focused outing perfect for trad climbers looking to sharpen crack climbing skills or for visitors seeking a quality climb that blends straightforward logistics with a taste of Newfoundland’s climbing character.

Climber Safety

Though the rock quality is solid, the bulge section demands exact gear placements—avoid rushing through to prevent gear failure. The ledge at the start is small, so be mindful with your approach and belaying setup to maintain safety.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Start from the small ledge 20 feet left of Thin Blue Line for a precise entry.

Finger cams in the range of 0.3" to 1.5" are crucial for secure placements.

Check the weather to avoid damp rock; the granite gets slick when wet.

Best climbed during mid-morning to afternoon when the sun warms the Main Wall.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.6
Quality
Consensus:The 5.6 rating here feels true to its grade but leans toward a slightly bold feel due to the finger cracks and the bulging section. While accessible for intermediate climbers, the protection requires thoughtful placement and confident crack technique. Compared to similar grades on local routes, this climb rewards steady breathing and precision more than raw power.

Gear Requirements

Carry a standard trad rack up to 3 inches, emphasizing well-fitting finger-sized cams to protect the horizontal and finger cracks. A few quick draws for the bolt section tighten the protection safely, while a sling may aid in extending gear placements around the bulge.

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Tags

finger crack
bulge
single pitch
trad gear
granite
Holyrood