HomeClimbingDig Hay Zoose

Dig Hay Zoose: A Two-Pitch Sport Adventure at Buzz Rock

Nuevo Leon, Mexico
sport climbing
multi-pitch
granite
jugs
crimps
thread protection
buzz rock
el potrero chico
Length: 175 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Dig Hay Zoose
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Dig Hay Zoose offers two pitches of sustained sport climbing amid El Potrero Chico’s rugged Buzz Rock. Combining powerful jugs with precise crimps, this 5.9 route moves with confident rhythm and smart protection, perfect for climbers seeking tactical adventure on solid Mexican granite."

Dig Hay Zoose: A Two-Pitch Sport Adventure at Buzz Rock

Set against the rugged backdrop of El Potrero Chico’s Buzz Rock sector, Dig Hay Zoose delivers a concentrated burst of vertical excitement packed into two pitches. The first pitch commands attention with its mix of generous jugs and sharp crimps, creating a rhythm that engages both body and mind. This sustained 5.9 climb challenges you to stay focused while rewarding with moves that feel both lively and well-protected. The granite wall here has a gritty texture, inviting fingers to lock in as you ascend past bolts spaced for confident clipping. The passage of air is fresh but carries a hint of earthiness from the surrounding desert flora—making each inhale grounding and energizing.

Transitioning to the second pitch, the grade lowers to a comfortable 5.8 but the quality of movement remains compelling. This section favors juggy holds, allowing climbers to find momentum with each pull. The route protection becomes more varied here; after clipping three bolts, you’ll need to rely on gear like slings threaded through natural features to safeguard the middle portion. This blend of bolts and removable protection adds a tactical element that keeps the second pitch interesting and provides a refreshing break from the bolt ladder feel of many sport climbs.

Buzz Rock’s location within the vast playground of El Potrero Chico means the views reach well beyond the rock itself. From your perch halfway up, the desert floor stretches outward, punctuated by rocky outcrops and sprawling cacti. The sun can be intense, especially during midday, so timing your climb for the cooler morning hours ensures both comfort and better grip on the stone. Footwear with sticky rubber is essential given the varied hold sizes and occasional slabby transitions. Hydration is critical here; even though the climb is relatively short, the dry environment quickly saps your energy.

Approach is straightforward, with a well-marked trail from the basecamp to Buzz Rock. Expect a moderate 15-minute walk over rocky terrain that challenges your footing but remains accessible to fit climbers and hikers. Having a detailed topo or GPS handy is helpful, especially if you want to explore other nearby routes after sending Dig Hay Zoose. The route’s length, about 175 feet total, means quick climbs with plenty of time left to soak in the environment or try additional lines.

Climbers appreciate Dig Hay Zoose for its balance of physical challenge, thoughtful protection, and the opportunity to move smoothly on classic El Potrero granite. This route embodies the spirit of adventure in northern Mexico’s climbing scene—direct, vibrant, and satisfying with solid rock under your hands. Whether you’re looking to sharpen your sport climbing skills or add a memorable two-pitch to your list, this line delivers without fuss or pretense. Gear up, plan your descent carefully, and prepare to meet a climb that encourages flow and precision in equal measure.

Climber Safety

While the first pitch offers reliable bolt protection, the second pitch’s thread placements require careful evaluation and experience with gear placement. Be cautious of potential runouts in the middle section and inspect slings before committing to the moves.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches2
Length175 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the harsh midday sun that heats the rock surface.

Bring sticky rubber shoes to handle both jugs and crimps with precision.

Pack extra slings and runners to protect the second pitch's thread placements.

Stay hydrated—desert air dries you out faster than expected even on short routes.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, Dig Hay Zoose holds true to that grade with a consistent challenge sustained through the first pitch’s mix of jugs and crimps. The second pitch steps down to 5.8 but demands careful placement of slings, which elevates the mental component. Overall, this climb feels right on par with classic El Potrero Chico sport routes without being overly stiff, rewarding steady technique and confidence on exposed granite.

Gear Requirements

The first pitch is well bolted, making quick clipping straightforward. The second pitch shifts to requiring three to four slings for thread protection alongside bolts, so prepare a varied rack to secure the middle section effectively.

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Tags

sport climbing
multi-pitch
granite
jugs
crimps
thread protection
buzz rock
el potrero chico