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Dièdre à Jean: A Classic Trad Climb on Charlevoix’s Palissades

Quebec City, Quebec Canada
trad
multi-pitch
granite
5.6
exposed
beginner friendly
Length: 755 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Dièdre à Jean
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Dièdre à Jean offers two classic trad pitches on the impressive Palissades de Charlevoix, balancing moderate climbing with spectacular views. This route is perfect for those honing trad skills in a quiet, scenic setting just outside Quebec City."

Dièdre à Jean: A Classic Trad Climb on Charlevoix’s Palissades

Dièdre à Jean offers climbers a focused two-pitch adventure amid the rugged cliffs of Palissades de Charlevoix, a revered climbing area just outside Quebec City. The route begins with a moderate 20-meter dihedral on the first pitch, demanding steady footwork and precise jamming—as the stone holds firm but expects respect. Moving upward, the rock feels alive, its textures cool and rough under your fingertips, guiding you through a channel where granite walls lean gently inward, almost inviting your hands to explore deeper. After reaching the anchor, the second pitch sends you 50 meters left, where two towering faces intersect. Here, the climb unfolds with airy moves along subtle edges. The rock’s angles push your attention to balance and placement, and the quiet dripping of condensation somewhere above punctuates the stillness. This section reveals breathtaking views of the Charlevoix region—a mix of forested hills and the distant curve of the St. Lawrence River—rewarding steady progression with natural grandeur.

While the climb settles comfortably into a 5.6 rating, it offers climbers the chance to refine trad technique in a setting that’s both accessible and visually striking. Protection is straightforward: the anchor at the first pitch provides a solid belay spot, and the approach through the Palissades is manageable, weaving along well-marked trails that lead you quietly from dense foliage to the sun-exposed cliff base. The rock quality is consistent, helping build confidence for those new to multi-pitch trad routes.

Plan your timing for mid-morning or early afternoon to avoid lingering shadows and take full advantage of the granite’s warmth, especially in the cooler seasons. A lightweight rack focused on small to medium cams and a set of nuts will cover the route comfortably. Given the exposed nature of the second pitch, bring a helmet, and prepare your shoes for precise edging. Water and layered clothing are recommended as the mountain winds can shift quickly near the ridge.

Dièdre à Jean is an inviting climb that embraces both the tranquility and challenge of trad climbing. It makes an ideal destination for climbers looking to sharpen skills while soaking in panoramic views and the persistent pulse of the Charlevoix outdoors. Whether scaling it for the first time or returning for its quiet rewards, the climb delivers a blend of natural beauty and accessible technical challenge.

Climber Safety

Though protection is straightforward, second pitch exposure requires careful attention to gear placements and helmet use is recommended. Be mindful of loose rock near the anchor and watch footing on the approach trail, which can be slick when wet.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length755 feet

Local Tips

Start the climb mid-morning to enjoy warm granite and reduce shadows on the wall.

Pack layers as winds can move quickly near the cliff ridge despite sunny weather.

Approach on well-marked trails that take about 20 minutes from the main parking area.

Bring enough water and snacks; no facilities are available at the base.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.6
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.6, Dièdre à Jean presents a solid moderate challenge with consistent holds and classic dihedral jamming. The grade feels fair and approachable, without unexpected cruxes, making it a reliable choice for trad climbers building confidence on multi-pitch routes. Compared to nearby climbs, this route leans toward the easier end but demands focus on technique, especially on pitch two where balance and careful pro placement are key.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack focusing on small to medium cams and nuts; the route has reliable anchors at the top of the first pitch. A helmet and precise climbing shoes are advisable given exposure on the second pitch.

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Tags

trad
multi-pitch
granite
5.6
exposed
beginner friendly