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Diaphoretic Spasms: Slab Climbing on Penny Royal Arches in Yosemite

Tuolumne Meadows, California United States
slab
low-angle
friction
runout
trad gear
Tuolumne Meadows
Yosemite National Park
Length: 375 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
Diaphoretic Spasms
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Diaphoretic Spasms provides an unassuming slab climb on Penny Royal Arches, demanding finesse and steady confidence. With three pitches of friction climbing balanced by thoughtful protection, it rewards climbers who appreciate subtle challenge away from Yosemite’s busier lines."

Diaphoretic Spasms: Slab Climbing on Penny Royal Arches in Yosemite

Diaphoretic Spasms offers an understated climb on the right end of Penny Royal Arches, situated within Yosemite National Park’s legendary Tuolumne Meadows. Unlike the more celebrated lines nearby, this route demands patience and focus as it ascends a low-angle slab, quietly challenging climbers with slick friction and subtle movement rather than flashy sequences. The climb stretches over three pitches and roughly 375 feet of granite, combining straightforward cracks and smearing faces with occasional steeper sections that invite measured precision.

The first pitch begins with steady upward movement on a gentle slab, rewarding a careful foot placement approach. A high bolt marks the initial protection point, while a horizontal crack offers natural gear choices for safety. Climbers often find a .5 to 3-inch cam fits well here. This section culminates in a steeper bulge protected by a second bolt before settling at the anchor. It’s a thoughtful start that primes you for the varying terrain ahead.

Pitch two introduces the crux immediately after the belay station, although the 5.9 rating seems slightly mild compared to other climbs in the area. A subtle leftward smear leads to the first bolt. Beyond that, the terrain softens, and the pitch becomes a more relaxed journey, punctuated with natural protection above. Expect pockets of loose movement at a 5.6 difficulty rating as the route continues to the anchor, offering moments to regain composure.

The final pitch pushes straight up from the belay past a single bolt, then transitions into easy friction climbing across a runout slab to reach a spacious ledge. Here, the climb’s minimalist protection makes precise technique essential. From the summit ledge, retreat involves two ropes for rappelling, although current anchor placements prolong the descent with multiple rappels rather than a smooth two-pitch climb and walk-off. This detail tends to make the descent more logistical than the route itself.

Diaphoretic Spasms is not a route for speed seekers or those chasing crag celebrities. Instead, it favors climbers who appreciate the subtle language of slab climbing—the tactile conversation between shoe rubber and granite. The route is ideal in dry weather and during shoulder seasons in Yosemite when friction is at its peak. Since the protection is limited, especially on the lower rating terrain, careful gear placement and confidence on slab become paramount. Footwear with excellent edging capability and sticky rubber will be your best allies here.

Access to Penny Royal Arches is straightforward, with a well-created trail from the Tuolumne Meadows area parking. It provides an immersive alpine vibe: breeze brushing through sparse pines, sunlight shifting over granite domes. Weather can shift quickly at this elevation, so monitoring forecasts and timing climbs for mornings or early afternoons is wise. The best bet is to hit the route just after a dry spell to ensure friction and protection placements hold firm.

In summary, Diaphoretic Spasms offers a no-nonsense slab experience on Yosemite’s quieter side, perfect for climbers seeking a blend of technical challenge and minimalistic protection. Its subtle difficulties and modest star rating keep it under the radar, making it a satisfying choice for those looking to escape crowds and test steady nerves on Tuolumne’s smooth granite.

Climber Safety

Approach with caution on runout sections below 5.6 difficulty, maintaining deliberate gear placements. The granite can feel slick, especially if damp, and the anchors require double ropes for rappel, so check your rig carefully before descending.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches3
Length375 feet

Local Tips

Aim for a dry day to maximize friction on the slab sections.

Use sticky-soled shoes with precision edging for best grip.

Plan for two lengthy rappels for descent; anchors are spaced for three pitches.

Start early to avoid afternoon winds and shifting weather.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating here feels slightly soft compared to local classics, with the crux early on pitch two offering a manageable challenge. Expect moderate runouts typical of slab terrain, demanding solid footwork rather than brute strength.

Gear Requirements

Bring a trad rack including cams from .5" to 3" and a handful of draws. Protection is sparse on easier terrain, so place carefully and focus on footwork.

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Tags

slab
low-angle
friction
runout
trad gear
Tuolumne Meadows
Yosemite National Park