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Devil's Dream: A Crisp Trad Climb in Boulder Canyon

Boulder, Colorado United States
lichen coverage
thin crack
left-facing dihedral
roof crux
single pitch
micro-cams
granite
Length: 70 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Devil's Dream
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Devil's Dream challenges climbers with a thin, lichen-streaked crack and technical moves centered on a small roof and a tight shelf. This one-pitch Boulder Canyon route offers textured granite and requires precise protection placements, perfect for trad climbers seeking a focused yet accessible climb."

Devil's Dream: A Crisp Trad Climb in Boulder Canyon

Devil's Dream offers a textured and engaging trad climbing experience along one of Boulder Canyon's quieter walls. Starting just right of a distinctive left-facing dihedral, this route invites climbers to navigate a delicate lichen-coated crack that tests finger strength and focus, accompanied by the steady grip of micro-cams and small stoppers protecting your ascent. The climb’s midpoint introduces a small roof, a pivotal feature that transitions into a short left-leaning corner leading to a narrow shelf where the protection familiarizes itself with the rhythm of your movements.

From this shelf, your hands find purchase on highly featured rock, encouraging liebacking and smearing techniques as you aim for the jugs resting along the upper ledge’s lip. The ascent becomes more demanding here, pushing you to orchestrate balanced movements while cautiously edging left along the lip, where better footholds and a less intimidating flake offer custom support.

A sturdy tree at the top provides a reliable anchor point and marks the triumphant end of the pitch. While the lichen-speckled rock adds some spice and a touch of slipperiness, it also challenges mental grit, reminding climbers that vigilance is essential, especially as a fall above the midsection’s shelf could bring a rough landing.

Approaching Devil's Dream requires some attention to detail: the start is positioned toward the upper reaches of the wall, just a short distance from the lone bolt of Racing the Sun to the north. This proximity can assist in pinpointing your line. The route's length of approximately 70 feet (one pitch) makes it an accessible yet focused climb, great for trad enthusiasts looking to expand their experience within Boulder’s renowned granite terrain.

Protection calls for a careful rack including micro-cams, small stoppers, and a gray C4 for the base of the roof, as gear placements above the mid-shelf become scarce and demand creative, precise placements. Standing on the mid-shelf, you can secure an ideal stopper or micro-cam to ease the movements to the top, where the tree stands firm.

Whether you’re seeking a straightforward challenge or a climb with a bit of mental edge, Devil's Dream blends technical moves on featured rock with a memorable crack sequence. Always plan your approach with reliable footwear and stay vigilant for the lichen’s influence on holds. Early morning climbs often yield firmer conditions, as the wall begins to receive sunlight moving east to west.

This climb is part of Boulder Canyon's broader climbing network, an accessible area known for quality granite and moderate routes that balance technical variety and exposure. Its proximity to Boulder city allows for quick access while providing enough wild character to feel set apart.

Completing the route involves careful downclimb via the approach trail or a rappel from the tree anchor. The descent is straightforward but requires proper attention to footing on potentially loose rock on the way down. Observing weather shifts and seasonal moisture will ensure the rock remains safe and supportive. Devil's Dream rewards climbers with a sense of accomplishment and a subtle reminder of the granite’s enduring character within Colorado’s vivid climbing landscape.

Climber Safety

Beware the lichen coating the start and upper rock; it reduces friction and heightens the risk of slipping. Protection is limited above the shelf, so falls in this section could be more hazardous. Use caution when working left along the lip to the tree anchor.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Start just right of the left-facing dihedral to locate the delicate lichen crack.

Use the Racing the Sun bolt uphill for a navigational landmark.

Approach early to enjoy firmer rock and less lichen moisture.

Prepare for footing variability along the shelf and roof area.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 PG13 rating sits comfortably for intermediate trad climbers but carries a slightly spicy edge due to lichen and sparse protection on the upper moves. The roof and lieback section add a technical crux that demands precise footwork, making the grade feel appropriately challenging without overstating difficulty.

Gear Requirements

Bring a rack emphasizing micro-cams, small stoppers, and a gray C4. Protection above the mid-shelf is sparse, so precise placements are essential, especially near the roof and upper section.

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Tags

lichen coverage
thin crack
left-facing dihedral
roof crux
single pitch
micro-cams
granite