HomeClimbingDétour à Becosse

Detour a Becosse: A Pumpy Challenge on Quebec’s Trad Crag

Dalquier, Quebec Canada
crack climbing
pumpy
sparse protection
micro gear
short route
5.11a R
Quebec granite
Length: 30 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Détour à Becosse
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Détour à Becosse is a sharp, 30-foot trad route that blends technical crack climbing with sustained pumpy moves. Its challenging protection and physical nature make it a must for climbers eager to test their gear finesse and endurance in Quebec’s northern granite."

Detour a Becosse: A Pumpy Challenge on Quebec’s Trad Crag

Set against the raw backdrop of Quebec’s northern granite, Détour à Becosse delivers a tight, physical 30-foot climb that tests both endurance and gear placement skills. The route begins with a leftward traverse along a clean crack that demands steady hands and focused movement. Midway, a square block offers a brief, well-earned pause, affording you a moment to steady your breath before the effort ramps up. Transitioning to the right, the crack narrows as you move into more technical terrain marked by crimps and an undercling that calls for precise body tension. Notoriously pumpy, this climb challenges your ability to sequence movements without losing momentum, especially as protection opportunities become scarce and tricky. Fortunately, a glue-in bolt waits at the top to protect the final reach, but most of the route depends on micro-stoppers, aliens, and tricams for security — gear placements that require a keen eye and steady hands under pressure.

Approaching this line means embracing its demanding nature and respecting the delicate balance between climbing efficiency and cautious gear management. The granite under Quebec’s often cool skies has a subtle roughness that offers friction, but the route’s sustained nature ensures the forearms quickly remind you of every move. Climbers should come prepared to engage fully — there’s little room to rest beyond the mid-climb block, and the rating (5.11a R) reflects both technical difficulty and runout sections. This translates into a climb that is not only about physical strength but also mental focus.

Located roughly 30 minutes outside the small communities clustered around Abitibi-Témiscamingue, this route is part of a growing network of traditional climbs in the Dalquier region. The granite walls open to stark skies and whispering forests, lending the climb a quiet presence punctuated by the occasional cry of distant wildlife. Access trails are modest but straightforward, winding through mixed conifer stands and occasionally crossing low, rocky outcrops before arriving at the base.

In preparation, climbers should bring a complete rack emphasizing small pro and micro cams — pieces that fit subtle constrictions rather than wide cracks dominate this climb’s protection opportunities. Weather here can cool down rapidly, so layering is key, especially in shoulder seasons. Morning starts offer the best combination of temperatures and light, as the face holds sun well into midday but can become warm during summer afternoons. Expect a descent on foot along a short scramble and forested trail, making sure to pack your approach shoes for stability and comfort.

Détour à Becosse stands out as a compact but intense climb, blending demanding crack techniques with the psychological edge of sparse protection. For seasoned trad climbers looking to push pump endurance while dialing skill with micro gear placements, this route offers a compelling taste of Quebec’s northern alpine edge.

Climber Safety

The route’s protection is minimal between the start and the glue-in bolt near the top, making precise gear placement essential. Climbers should stay aware of runout sections and avoid over-gripping, which can lead to premature pump. The rock is solid but can become slick if damp, so check conditions carefully.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length30 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon warmth on the granite face.

Bring a micro gear rack—small nuts and cams are crucial here.

Use the square block for a short rest to manage forearm pump.

Prepare for a quick forested descent—trail shoes help beyond climbing boots.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.11a R
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.11a R, this climb challenges with a pumpy sequence and limited protection, making the R-rating feel justified. The route’s compact nature lets the crux moves quickly wear on your arms, and gear placements require extra attention. Compared to similar Quebec trad routes, it’s on the stiffer side, emphasizing endurance over short power bursts.

Gear Requirements

This route requires a standard trad rack focusing heavily on smaller protection, including micro stoppers, a set of tricams or Aliens, and small cams. The protection is sparse and tricky, demanding precise placement skill.

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Tags

crack climbing
pumpy
sparse protection
micro gear
short route
5.11a R
Quebec granite