Carved into the rugged expanse of The Smoke Bluffs in Squamish, British Columbia, Desperado demands attention with its distinctive left-leaning crack system stretched between the well-known routes Wobbler and Magical Child. This single-pitch trad climb cuts a sharp, diagonal path up a smooth wall, offering a blend of physical strain and mental precision that pushes your footwork and gear placements to the limit. As you approach the base, the rock’s gray surface feels cool underfoot, and the faint whispers of the forest around provide a stark contrast to the intense focus required on the climb itself.

From the first moves, you’ll notice the challenge within the crack’s shape: protection lies in oddly angled and sometimes counterintuitive placements. The difficulty is not just in the climb’s 5.10c rating but in the necessity to move fluidly without hesitation. The left-foot smear holds little room for error as you find yourself balancing between commitment and control. The gear placements demand swift but careful attention, discouraging dawdling on these strenuous stances. Many climbers find themselves sprinting through this pitch, adrenaline tipping the scales as pumping forearms fight to keep the rhythm.

Despite its intriguing features, Desperado remains an off-the-beaten-track jewel. The trail to the base offers a short, moderately steep approach through typical Cascade forest, veering off from the main trails to Ronin’s Corner. The climb’s isolation is palpable, confirmed by a light coating of cobwebs around the crack, suggesting few have taken this route recently. Its position makes it less suited for top roping, elevating it to a solid lead climb and offering an experience that blends technical skill with commitment.

Gear-wise, pack a selection focused on smaller to medium-sized nuts and finger cams, as these fit most of the protection opportunities along the diagonal crack. You’ll want a couple of larger cams like #1 or #2 Camalots near the join with Wobbler to cover the wider placements. The rock’s quality is solid, but the angle and shape of the cracks require constant attention to gear placement creativity. This isn’t a climb for passive leaders—quick decisions and confident placements are key to managing pump and exposure.

For those planning the ascent, arrive with shoes capable of precise edging and smearing, as your left foot will dance along slick surfaces with every move. Hydrate well before the climb; short as it is, the intensity can sap energy quickly. Morning and early afternoon offer the best light and temperature balance, with the wall receiving ample sun but avoiding scorching heat due to the local tree cover.

Desperado at Ronin’s Corner is a compact but rewarding trad route that tests more than just physical strength. It invites climbers to engage deeply with gear strategy, body positioning, and pace. While it may not carry the popularity of nearby classics, it rewards those willing to meet its demands with an authentic Squamish adventure etched into one of the area’s lesser-touched faces.