Desire: Precision and Poise on Grouse Slab’s Southwest Face

Donner Summit,California ,United States
slab
sport climbing
Donner Summit
edgy moves
short pitch
Grade: 5.9
Length: 40 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Desire
Aspect
South Facing

Desire

5.9, Sport

Donner Summit

California ,United States

Overview

"Desire is a compact slab climb on Grouse Slab’s southwest face, combining delicate edging with a sharp crux low on the wall. Perfect for climbers keen to refine slab technique in a straightforward, well-bolted setting near Donner Summit."

Desire: Precision and Poise on Grouse Slab’s Southwest Face

Perched on the southwest face of the Grouse Slab, Desire offers a brief yet demanding test of balance and finesse that rewards climbers with a tidy slab experience just minutes from Donner Summit. This single-pitch sport route stretches about 40 feet over a slick granite surface peppered with tiny edges—challenging your footwork and focus from the get-go. Approaching Desire requires a short hike off the main Grouse Slab trail, moving left and uphill through a tight patch of scrubby manzanita. The trail narrows as you near a handful of bolted lines on the southwest wall, with Desire marking the rightmost climb along this collection.

The climbing itself starts with a subtle negotiation of small footholds that test your precision before reaching the first bolt, which guards a surprisingly stiff crux. Here, every shift of weight and fingertips on the slab’s tiny edges feels deliberate, demanding steady balance and composure. Once past the first bolt, the rock eases into more manageable moves until the final clip at the second bolt culminates at a secure two-bolt anchor. This route is approachable for climbers confident on slab, but the thin edges and delicate moves make it an engaging challenge rather than a casual stroll.

The granite beneath your hands is firm and unyielding, dusted occasionally by pine needles from the surrounding forest. The air carries the faint pine scent and the distant hum of I-80, a reminder of the nearby corridor. Visibility is good here, with the open southwest aspect inviting afternoon sunshine that helps dry the rock quickly after morning moisture. The setting encourages a focused climb yet promises rewarding views over the distant Tahoe basin.

Gearwise, Desire requires a straightforward rack: three bolts lead to the top anchor secured by two bolts. It’s sport climbing in its purest form—minimal gear fuss, maximum concentration on movement and foot placement. The thin trail on approach can be slippery when wet, so sturdy footwear and careful footing are essential. Climbers benefit from timing ascents during mid to late morning when the wall is warming steadily but not yet scorched by midday heat.

While not a lengthy route, Desire invites climbers to hone slab technique and mental focus in a low-commitment setting. It’s well suited for those wanting to sharpen footwork or add a crisp sport climb to their Tahoe-area list. Just be prepared for the crux, patience, and an eye for delicate edging—this route rewards finesse over brute strength. With moderate approach effort and solid protection, Desire is a neat gem on the southwest face, perfect for those ready to engage in quiet moves with a view.

Local climbers advise paying close attention to rock conditions after rain, as moist slabs can be slick and unforgiving. Approach carefully through the dense manzanita, respecting the fragile understory. Once on the wall, move deliberately and enjoy the clear granite under your hands. After topping out, descend by lowering on the fixed anchors and return via the manzanita trail. Desire doesn’t overwhelm with length or complexity but carves out a refined moment of climbing discipline and outdoor immersion just off the highway corridor.

Climber Safety

The granite slab becomes slick when damp, so avoid climbing immediately after rain or morning dew. Approach with care on the uneven, narrow trail through manzanita, which can scratch or impede progress if rushed.

Route Specifications

Route Details

5.9
TypeSport
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Watch your footing on the narrow manzanita path; it can be slippery and uneven.

Aim for mid-morning to avoid the hottest sun hitting the southwest-facing slab.

Check for moisture on the slab after rain—wet granite means less grip.

Lower carefully on the fixed anchors; the descent is straightforward but requires attention.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:With a 5.9 rating, Desire offers moves that feel slightly more challenging than the grade suggests, mainly due to the crux at the first bolt demanding precision and a confident slab technique. It’s a solid stepping stone for those sharpening their slab skills, similar in challenge to other Tahoe area slabs but with fewer bolts and more emphasis on delicate balance.

Gear Requirements

The route is protected by three bolts leading to a two-bolt anchor at the top. No additional gear is necessary, making it an ideal sport climb for those looking to focus on movement rather than gear placement.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Desire and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

slab
sport climbing
Donner Summit
edgy moves
short pitch