HomeClimbingDesde la oscuridad

Desde la oscuridad: A Bold Climb on Calixtlahuaca's Upper Cliff

Toluca, Mexico
trad gear
mixed protection
technical moves
single pitch
west facing
rock climbing mexico
Length: 30 ft
Type: Trad, Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Desde la oscuridad
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Desde la oscuridad cuts a vertical line on Calixtlahuaca’s upper cliff, balancing technical trad and sport climbing across a focused 30-foot pitch. This climb invites skilled climbers ready to manage gear and movement in tight proximity to its neighbor, 11 de Septiembre."

Desde la oscuridad: A Bold Climb on Calixtlahuaca's Upper Cliff

Ascending Desde la oscuridad means stepping into an arena where rock and skill collide in a concentrated 30 feet of climbing that challenges both mind and muscle. Located in the upper reaches of the Franja Superior cliff at Calixtlahuaca, Central Mexico, this route commands attention with its blend of traditional and sport climbing elements. The limestone wall stands firm and textured beneath your fingertips, a surface that dares you to commit with every hold. Vegetation clings sporadically, adding a dash of green against stone grey, while the afternoon sun shapes shadows that play across the face, subtly shifting as you progress.

This climb demands preparation—gear is essential from the outset. Protection choices must be deliberate, blending natural placements with fixed bolts, because the route shares runouts with the adjacent 11 de Septiembre climb. The moves are technical, particularly around the crux where the grade inches up to a bold 5.10c/d, requiring precise footwork and confident hand placements. The route’s single pitch concentrates the effort, making each moment count without the luxury of extended rest.

Approaching Desde la oscuridad starts from a short trek up from base parking, the ground firm but carrying loose debris here and there. The climb faces west, catching the late-day light, so early afternoon ascents offer optimal sun exposure without the harsh heat of midday. After the climb, descending is straightforward via a safe rappel or a cautious downclimb on solid holds.

Key to success is thoughtful gear selection: cams that fit narrow crack sections, plus quickdraws for the bolts, ensure smooth clipping and security. The rock presents pockets and edges that feel alive, gripping your hands and teasing out precise movement. For those who appreciate a climb where challenge meets charm, Desde la oscuridad rewards with thrilling exposure, a compact vertical battle, and a chance to engage with one of Calixtlahuaca's prominent upper wall routes. Whether you're sharpening your technique or pushing grades, this climb offers both excitement and an instructive lesson in adaptation and focus.

Climber Safety

Careful gear placement on the first segment is critical, as the protection is sparse initially and the route shares its runout with a neighboring climb. Loose rock debris near the base calls for cautious footing on approach and descent.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Sport
Pitches1
Length30 feet

Local Tips

Start climbs in early afternoon for ideal lighting on the west-facing wall.

Bring a full rack with small to medium cams for reliable placements.

Double-check anchors at the top before rappelling down.

Approach trail is short but uneven; sturdy shoes are advisable.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c/d
Quality
Consensus:Rated at 5.10c/d, Desde la oscuridad sits at a climbing grade that demands technical precision without overly punishing strength. The crux involves committed moves on small edges and pocketed holds, making it feel stiffer than a straightforward 5.10c. This route compares well to other Calixtlahuaca climbs in complexity but stands out because of its hybrid protection and tight space shared with 11 de Septiembre.

Gear Requirements

Protection requires a mix of trad gear and bolts, starting with cams and nuts for the initial crack, complemented by fixed draws along the route to secure the runout shared with 11 de Septiembre.

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Tags

trad gear
mixed protection
technical moves
single pitch
west facing
rock climbing mexico