Adventure Collective

Demerit at Punishment Wall: A Steady Trad Climb for New Cadets

Colorado Springs, Colorado United States
wide crack
low angle
good pro
beginner trad
sunlit morning climb
crack climbing
Length: 40 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Demerit
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Demerit on Punishment Wall offers new leaders a steady, low-angled crack climb that combines approachable gear placements with consistent movement. Perfect for those building trad skills in a quiet yet striking Colorado setting."

Demerit at Punishment Wall: A Steady Trad Climb for New Cadets

Demerit offers a straightforward, approachable introduction to traditional climbing set against the rugged backdrop of Punishment Wall at the Air Force Academy, Colorado Springs. This single-pitch route traces a wide, low-angled crack running up the cliff’s right side, presenting steady climbing that tests balance and technique without overwhelming the climber. The rock’s texture invites confident hand jams and comfortable foot placements, encouraging new leads to build trust in their gear and movement on natural features. As you ascend the 40-foot line, the climb’s rhythm unfolds with consistent crack climbing that demands focus but rewards with smooth, progressive movement. The wide crack feels like a partnership, its edges responding to your holds and nudging your body upward in a deliberate dance between effort and flow. Protection is straightforward here, with solid gear placements in sizes 2 to 3 that inspire confidence and keep the security intact throughout the climb. Sunlight bathes the wall during the mornings, warming the rock and making it an ideal time for climbs before afternoon winds pick up. Given its proximity to Colorado Springs, Demerit is easily accessible but maintains a sense of ruggedness characteristic of the surrounding high desert landscape. This climb suits new trad leaders seeking practical experience on gear placements and crack techniques in a moderate setting that cuts no corners. Preparation-wise, sturdy shoes with grippy soles and finger tape for crack friction improve performance and protect your skin from abrasion. Hydration is key in the often dry Colorado air, so bring plenty of water, especially during warmer months. Seasonal timing favors spring and fall when temperatures are mild and stable. The route’s modest length and gentle angle make it an excellent choice for warming up before moving on to more challenging lines around the area. Afterwards, climbers can enjoy sweeping views of the Academy grounds and surrounding mesa, connecting effort with place in a raw and tangible way. Demerit stands as a rite of passage for cadets and climbers stepping into the world of trad climbing—simple, demanding, and rewarding in equal measure.

Climber Safety

Although the crack provides reliable protection, staying disciplined with gear placement is essential due to the sustained nature of the climb. The rock quality is generally sound but watch for loose flakes near the base after winter freeze-thaw cycles. Approach with caution on the steep trail leading to the wall, as loose gravel can cause slips.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Start early to enjoy warm, sunlit rock before afternoon winds increase.

Wear sturdy, comfortable shoes with sticky rubber for optimal foot jams.

Bring finger tape to protect skin during sustained crack sections.

Hydrate well—the dry air can dehydrate quickly, even in cooler weather.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating feels fair and consistent, with no hidden crux sections but enough sustained climbing to challenge new trad leaders. Compared to other local climbs in the 5.7 to 5.8 range, Demerit offers excellent gear opportunities and straightforward movement, making it a solid step up for those newly transitioning to trad lead.

Gear Requirements

Reliable protection in sizes 2-3 can be placed throughout the crack with ease; no fixed gear is present, so be prepared to place each piece as you climb.

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Tags

wide crack
low angle
good pro
beginner trad
sunlit morning climb
crack climbing