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Deliver Us from Evil: A Bold Trad Challenge on North Astro Dome

Twentynine Palms, California United States
trad
runout
old bolts
desert
single-pitch
Joshua Tree
pocketed protection
mental challenge
Length: 90 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Deliver Us from Evil
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Deliver Us from Evil offers a stark trad climb on North Astro Dome’s Southwest Face, featuring a run-out middle with solid but weathered protection. For adventurous climbers seeking a raw, desert trad experience, this route tests mental grit alongside technical skills."

Deliver Us from Evil: A Bold Trad Challenge on North Astro Dome

Deliver Us from Evil carves out a gritty, memorable experience on the Southwest Face of North Astro Dome, standing as a sharp contrast to the more frequented climbs in Joshua Tree's Wonderland of Rocks. This single-pitch 90-foot route demands a mindset ready for adventure—the rock isn't pristine, but it tells a story of age and grit under your fingertips. The climb starts with a well-protected section that invites you into its rhythm, only to open into a run-out middle portion that tests your focus and mental steadiness. The higher crux tightens the challenge again, guarded by some old bolts that bear the history of countless climbers who have dared this line. Protection options are limited, but strategic placements and a shared anchor connect you to the clearing at the top of Chute to Kill. The rock’s texture carries a grainy feel, alerting you to tread carefully but rewarding persistence. This route delivers a straightforward but bold trad climb for those looking to step off the beaten track, set against the stark beauty of Joshua Tree's dramatic desert landscape. Keep your approach and descent plans clear and your gear prepared for placing pro in a pocketed, sometimes sparse handhold environment. This climb is a solid choice when other lines feel too polished, perfect for trad climbers craving a raw slice of Southern California desert grit.

Climber Safety

Exercise caution on the aged bolts—don’t rely on them entirely as your sole protection. The rock quality is fair but can be crumbly in sections. Plan your placements carefully and prepare for potential swings. Watch for loose rock and avoid climbing during high winds or after rain which can weaken the stone.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length90 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid scorching midday sun on the Southwest Face of North Astro Dome.

Scout and familiarize yourself with the worn bolts before the climb; some may feel aged.

Bring extra webbing or slings for the shared anchor atop Chute to Kill.

Carry sufficient water and sunscreen given the exposed desert environment.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8 R
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8 R, this route’s grade feels appropriate but leans towards the adventurous side due to its run-out nature. The initial protection sets a solid foundation, but the middle run-out section demands confidence and careful movement. The crux near the top, guarded by old bolts, adds a subtle spike in difficulty. Compared to other Joshua Tree climbs of similar YDS, this one tests mental focus more than raw technical skill.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full trad rack focusing on smaller cams and nuts to manage limited natural protection options. Four old bolts provide some refuge along the route, including a shared anchor at the top of Chute to Kill. Be ready for placements in pockets and cracks that reward precision.

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Tags

trad
runout
old bolts
desert
single-pitch
Joshua Tree
pocketed protection
mental challenge