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Deflector: A Diverse Trad Challenge on Medlicott Dome

Tuolumne Meadows, California United States
finger crack
slab
varied protection
Yosemite trad
runout
multi-pitch
approach closure
vegetation
Length: 500 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
5
Location
Deflector
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Deflector carves a path up Medlicott Dome’s West Face with varied cracks, flakes, and slab moves. This 5-pitch route tests gear placement and route-finding skills, rewarding climbers with classic Yosemite exposure and challenging climbing."

Deflector: A Diverse Trad Challenge on Medlicott Dome

Deflector offers climbers a compelling mix of challenges on the West Face of Medlicott Dome in Yosemite National Park, weaving together technical finger cracks, delicate flakes, and polished edges that demand both skill and attention. Unlike many straightforward routes in the area, Deflector's varied lineup of pitches keeps you engaged from the first step. Approaching the climb requires extra care, as the initial pitches pass through the Medlicott Raptor closure zone—a reminder that route stewardship and timing are just as crucial as climbing technique here. Once past the approach, the face opens up to a sequence of moves that balance between thin finger jams, subtle liebacks, and slabby sequences lined with incut edges brightened by golden patina. Expect a route where route-finding plays a key role; wandering sections mean you’ll keep your wits sharp to stay on line, adding a layer of mental challenge beyond the physical.

Protection demands a solid rack focusing on smaller cams—doubling up on micro sizes between 0.5 and 1 inch is essential, alongside micro nuts and cams up to 3 inches. Fixed anchors, including those on the approach pitches and the main rappels, provide solid security points. Still, due to the exposed nature of some cruxes, Deflector carries a 5.9 R rating that warns climbers to watch their rope management and movement precision, especially on the runout sections. The final pitch shares terrain with the neighboring Chartres route and presents a delicate climb featuring fragile knobs and flakes that need a careful touch—climbing this pitch completes a full ascent of Medlicott Dome’s southwest reaches.

Seasonally, this route can hang onto moisture longer than surrounding climbs, which means early season attempts might require patience as wet rock dries. Vegetation shields the finger crack in places, occasionally requiring some cleaning for optimal protection and movement. The approach trail covers uneven terrain with some route-finding required, making early daylight hours the optimal time to start your day. After summiting, descending by rappel requires particular vigilance; the final rappel’s rope stretches off the deck before you unweight it, but the landing zone is forgiving flat sand, making any minor missteps safer here than on more jagged ledges.

Deflector stands out as an excellent choice for climbers who want more than a simple pitch-by-pitch climb—its mix of protection challenges, varied styles, and exposure paired with Yosemite’s expansive views delivers a memorable day on the wall. Preparation means packing a diverse rack, double-checking seasonal restrictions, and gearing up for a longer approach and descent than similar length routes. The payoff is found in the satisfaction of reading the rock well, managing protection carefully, and topping out atop one of Tuolumne Meadows’ classic domes with the surrounding Sierra peaks stretching ahead.

Climber Safety

Be mindful of the delicate rock features on the final pitch shared with Chartres, as fragile knobs and flakes demand deliberate movement. Additionally, the initial approach pitches cross closure zones with restricted access during nesting seasons, so confirm area restrictions beforehand.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches5
Length500 feet

Local Tips

Check in advance for Medlicott Dome raptor closures before planning your approach.

Start early to allow extra time for wandering pitches and slower route-finding sections.

Prepare to clean some vegetated finger cracks for optimal pro placements.

Pay close attention on the final rappel; rope management here is critical.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 R
Quality
Consensus:While the rating sits at 5.9 R, the runout protections bump the overall seriousness, making this feel stiffer than many typical 5.9 routes. The cruxes test both your technical edge control and your mental resolve, especially on sections where protection thins out. For climbers familiar with nearby Chartres, Deflector shares several similar moves but requires a bit more care due to its route-finding demands and the vegetated finger crack.

Gear Requirements

Bring a rack focused on small to medium cams up to 3" with plenty of micros between 0.5" and 1" doubled. Micro nuts are crucial, and all anchors are bolted for reliable protection. Use a single 70m rope but be cautious on the final rappel as the rope leaves the deck, though the landing area is flat and forgiving.

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Tags

finger crack
slab
varied protection
Yosemite trad
runout
multi-pitch
approach closure
vegetation