HomeClimbingDeep Space

Deep Space Trad Climb on Pluto Slab, Yosemite

Lee Vining, California United States
slab climbing
small pro
runout
multi-pitch
Yosemite trad
water streak
Length: 300 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Deep Space
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Deep Space on Pluto Slab weaves two pitches of technical slab climbing marked by minimal protection and subtle crack features. This trad route offers a focused challenge in the heart of Yosemite’s high country with sweeping views and thoughtfully spaced gear."

Deep Space Trad Climb on Pluto Slab, Yosemite

Set against the vast granite expanse of Yosemite’s Tuolumne Meadows, Deep Space offers a focused two-pitch trad adventure on Pluto Slab that challenges climbers to balance careful gear placement with smooth movement. The route begins by tracing a left-running water streak, immediately placing you in touch with the rock’s raw texture—a path marked by four strategic bolts guarding the crux. This initial section demands attention; the holds can be thin and gear placements sparse, making solid smarts and steady nerves essential. Reaching the ledge feels like earning a brief reprieve, where the route turns right along a ledge that leads to a subtle corner—the ideal spot for a compact gear belay.

The second pitch lifts you upward along a right-running water streak toward the summit. Here, protection thins out, requiring a confident runner and a good eye for small nuts and TCU placements. Although protection is minimal, the climbing breezes up and becomes more straightforward, giving some room to breathe and appreciate the towering views across Glen Aulin and Tuolumne’s open meadows. At approximately 300 feet total length, Deep Space condenses both mental and physical demands into a short, sharp session that rewards those who respect its spacing and subtle crack features.

Approaching the climb involves a moderate hike from the Glen Aulin trailhead, following well-maintained paths through pine and fir forests before the granite cliffs open wide. The route’s location at the edge of Pluto Dome ensures plenty of sunlight during mid-morning to early afternoon, making late spring to early fall the prime climbing season. Choosing the right footwear with sticky rubber and bringing a ranged rack loaded with small cams, nuts, and a few draws will prepare you for the variable pro opportunities.

In all, Deep Space stands out as a solid test piece for trad climbers seeking a brief but engaging challenge in a stunning Yosemite setting. It demands respect for its runouts without venturing into overly committing territory, balancing excitement with achievable protection. Whether you're sharpening your trad skills or savoring the unique slabs of the Sierra Nevada, this climb offers both a physical puzzle and a chance to connect with one of the park’s less crowded, characterful walls.

Climber Safety

Expect long runouts especially on pitch two where gear placements are small and spaced. The rock is solid granite but pay close attention to foot placements on the water-streak slabs, which can be slick when damp. Be prepared for sparse anchor options and plan your rappels carefully.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length300 feet

Local Tips

Approach from Glen Aulin trailhead, expect a 30-minute easy hike through forested terrain.

Bring sticky-soled climbing shoes for maximum friction on slab sections.

Pitch one crux lies along a left water streak with four bolts; focus on precise footwork.

Start climbs mid-morning to catch sun on Pluto Slab; avoid early morning dampness.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 R grading reflects a route with reasonable technical moves but increased exposure due to limited protection. The crux pitch includes bolt-protected sections which ease the risk, but overall the rating feels tense rather than extreme. Compared to other Tuolumne slabs, Deep Space is a bit stiffer on pro demands but remains accessible to confident 5.9 leaders comfortable on slab.

Gear Requirements

Plan for small cams, TCU’s, and stoppers. Draws are handy for clipping the four bolts protecting the crux pitch. Protection is relatively sparse, so strong gear placement skills are key, especially on pitch two where pro gets rare.

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Tags

slab climbing
small pro
runout
multi-pitch
Yosemite trad
water streak