"Deep Fried is a single-pitch trad climb at Upper Quarry famed for its sustained chimney and crack system. Climbers face unique wind-driven challenges and gear placements, with a subtle crux that rewards technique and boldness."
Carved sharply into the rocky face of California's Upper Quarry, Deep Fried demands a steady hand and sharp focus. The climb starts with a chimney just to the right of the striking Lumpy Gravy route, inviting climbers into a vertical crack system that stretches the full 80-foot pitch. This chimney, wrapped in tall orange rock weathered by time, feels alive with the rush of updrafts that sweep through the narrow space, pushing gusts of cool air against your skin and making it tricky to maintain clear sightlines as you ascend. The crack running through this tight, sustained chimney line offers natural protection opportunities, requiring a rack that ranges from large cams for the bottom sections to smaller gear threading the middle and then large pieces again once you gain height. Expect some loose rock near the chockstone—a natural bottleneck feature that tests your steadiness and gear placements. At this juncture, the climb becomes a negotiation between technique and terrain: either exit right where a crack spills out of the chimney or, for the leaner climbers feeling bold, continue straight up. Pushing upwards grants a crux move hinting at 5.9+ difficulty, raising the challenge beyond the established 5.8 rating. On reaching the top, grounded confidence gives way to ease as the walk-off descent stretches behind you. Deep Fried offers both a physical and mental push, well-suited for trad climbers ready to engage with an environment where the rock demands respect and vigilance. The climb inhabits an unfiltered wildness associated with Sonora Pass Highway regions, giving a genuine taste of the high Sierra’s rugged character—without pretense, just a hands-on encounter with real granite and shifting microclimates that keep you alert every step of the way.
Beware of loose rock near the chockstone—test all holds and placements carefully. Updrafts inside the chimney can blow dust and debris into your eyes, making protective eyewear a good idea. The exit moves require caution, especially if you opt for the direct, skinny exit route.
Start early to avoid afternoon winds that can disrupt visibility inside the chimney.
Wear sticky climbing shoes with good edge control to navigate the tight chimney and face moves.
Check all gear placements carefully near loose rock sections to ensure solid pro.
Walk off the top on the well-marked trail to the east after the climb.
Bring a full rack including large cams for the chimney’s bottom and top sections, smaller gear for the midsection cracks, and nuts for layout placements. Taper your rack expecting variable crack widths and some loose rock near the chockstone.
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