"Decade at Metcalfe Rock challenges climbers with a bouldery start and a dynamic crux on a steep overhanging wall. This one-pitch sport climb rewards strength and precision with solid protection and flowing moves above the crux."
Decade climbs out from the Overhanging Wall at Metcalfe Rock with a raw, athletic intensity that challenges both body and mind. This single-pitch sport route demands more than steady technique—it requires gritty power and precision timing right from the first move. The opening sequence feels more like a boulder problem, with tight, funky moves that jostle your focus and shaking forearms warning you that the crux is coming. Soon enough, you’re slapped into the heart of the climb—a bouldery crux that tests your grip strength and body tension while rewarding confident, dynamic movement.
Above the crux, the tension eases into longer, well-protected moves on solid holds, allowing you to regain composure before reaching the anchors. The rhythm here shifts into a confident, flowing climb across good jug lines and subtle footholds, a stark contrast to the explosive start. Bolts line the route consistently, providing peace of mind in this sport climb where protection is straightforward—just clip and climb.
Metcalfe Rock sits in Ontario South Bouldering and Rock—a reliable go-to for climbers craving dry rock and varied challenges just a short drive south of Owen Sound. The overhanging wall where Decade lives offers a clear line of sight to rail through its tough sequences under open skies, with the surrounding forest lending fresh, earthy scents that fill the air. The route’s steep angle draws you close, inviting you to feel every edge and rail as if the rock itself pushes back.
Approach trails are short and well-marked, cutting through shaded woodland that softens the hike and primes you for the climb’s physical demands. Timing your climb for morning or late afternoon helps avoid the sun’s peak glare, letting the rock cool before your hands lock on the first bolts. As with any intense sport route, steady hydration and a deliberate warm-up near the base will ease you into Decade’s dynamic nature without surprise.
Climbers familiar with short, bouldery sport lines will appreciate the compact challenge here—the rating’s solid at 5.11a, but the moves demand finger strength and core stability more than sustained endurance. Unlike long endurance routes, Decade thrives on explosive power and controlled aggression. Expect to wrestle with the holds and trust your feet; loose chalk or dusty edges can sap confidence, so bring a brush and stay sharp.
This climb reflects Metcalfe Rock’s wider reputation as an accessible but demanding crag where every route tells a story of strength and finesse. For those ready to push their limits on overhanging terrain with clear protection and direct access, Decade provides a raw and rewarding test. Approach with respect and preparation, and this route will sharpen your skills and pump your enthusiasm in equal measure.
The overhanging angle means falls can be long and dynamic; make sure your belayer is attentive and positioned well. Some holds around the crux can be polished—ensure good foot placement and test edges before fully committing. The descent area can be slick when wet, so approach and departure need caution.
Start with a thorough warm-up to manage the bouldery first moves.
Approach via the well-marked trail through shaded forest; allow about 15 minutes from parking.
Bring a brush to clean the holds, especially after wet or dusty days.
Climb in cooler parts of the day to avoid slippery rock and excessive sweat.
Route is protected entirely by bolts to lower off anchors, making quick clipping your main focus. A brush for cleaning holds is advised to maintain friction on key holds in the crux.
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