"Death to the Right offers a concise, exposed trad experience in Mount St. Helena’s Far Side wall. A one-pitch route defined by a committing roof move, it challenges climbers to manage sparse protection and rope drag while navigating a technical crux."
Deep in the rugged contours of Mount St. Helena, the "Death to the Right" route stands out as a brief, sharp encounter with exposed trad climbing. This single pitch, carving 50 feet into the Far Side wall, demands focus and precision despite its relatively short length. The climb begins below a low roof — an imposing feature that dares you to skirt its shadow rather than power directly over it. Instead of charging the roof from the start, experienced climbers find an easier line running beneath it, conserving effort on straightforward terrain until reaching the second bolt. Here, the route’s defining moment arrives: a technical, committing move to clip the bolt perched just beyond the roof’s lip, followed by a powerful surmounting of the roof itself. This move is a sharp jolt of excitement amidst otherwise moderate climbing.
Protection on this route is sparse. The two bolts anchor the climb, sharing the same fixed anchor as the adjacent "Step to the Left" route, but between these points the rock offers minimal pro opportunities. Climbers must prepare for long runouts and be mindful of rope drag, which increases as the rope snakes around the roof feature. This makes efficient clipping essential and testing your patience around the upper crux. While some might find the approach sections beneath the roof less challenging and even flat, the roof move itself demands commitment and technique.
The setting, tucked in California’s Wine Country within the San Francisco Bay Area, provides more than just vertical challenge. The rock face catches afternoon light, highlighting the sharp edges and subtle features of this granite slab. The approach to the climb passes through mixed terrain typical of Mount St. Helena’s lower elevations — a combination of rocky patches and open soil trails. It’s an accessible climb for those looking to push their limit on a short but intense pitch, with a technical commitment that belies its concise stature.
For climbers aiming to tick "Death to the Right" off their list, preparation is key. Bring a standard trad rack, but be ready to manage your draws efficiently to avoid the drag around the roof. A calm focus will help you navigate the roof move with confidence. Approach the climb in cooler parts of the day to prevent heat buildup on the rock, especially in summer months.
Overall, "Death to the Right" offers a compact blast of trad climbing challenge in the heart of a beautiful, accessible climbing area. It’s not a long journey, but it delivers a slice of technical grit for climbers ready to test their calm under pressure.
The route features considerable runouts between bolts making falls potentially serious. Rock quality is generally solid, but the area beneath the roof may have loose debris—move cautiously to avoid dislodging rock. The rope drag near the roof adds complexity to clipping; a controlled, deliberate approach is essential.
Plan your clips carefully to reduce rope drag near the roof.
Bring a standard trad rack, but focus on small to medium cams for limited placements.
Approach in early morning or late afternoon for best rock temperatures.
Watch for loose rock on the ledges beneath the roof and move deliberately.
Two bolts anchor the climb above the roof, shared with the nearby Step to the Left route. Sparse protection along the pitch calls for a solid trad rack and confidence in managing long runouts. Expect rope drag challenges around the roof feature.
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