HomeClimbingDeath of a Decade

Death of a Decade: A Stemming Challenge on Hunk Rock

Twentynine Palms, California United States
stemming
trad
desert granite
single pitch
left-facing dihedral
Length: 70 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Death of a Decade
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A dynamic stemming test on Hunk Rock’s East Face, Death of a Decade delivers 70 feet of continuous movement through a left-facing dihedral. With solid granite and straightforward access, it’s a compelling choice for trad climbers seeking a technical workout in Joshua Tree’s desert terrain."

Death of a Decade: A Stemming Challenge on Hunk Rock

Death of a Decade offers climbers an engaging, physically demanding experience on one of Joshua Tree's most distinct formations—the East Face of Hunk Rock. This single-pitch traditional route stretches 70 feet through a left-facing dihedral that demands dynamic stemming and body tension, making every move a test of coordination and strength. The rock here is solid, with excellent friction that encourages confident foot placements and precise hand jams. Positioned just right of the more technical Soft Cell (rated 5.10c/d), this climb is a rewarding alternative that balances challenge with accessibility.

From the ground, the route catches the eye with its clean lines and inviting features. As you ascend, the dihedral seems to open and close, the walls pushing and pulling against your limbs, giving the rock an almost tactile personality. The climb promises a rigorous workout without sacrificing flow, as the stemming moves blend seamlessly into carefully placed jams and smears. A fixed pin and a bolt provide minimal but strategic protection, so carrying a rack from half an inch up to three inches is essential for safe progression.

The approach to Hunk Rock's East Face is straightforward, with trails through desert scrub and boulder-strewn terrain that set the stage for an authentic Joshua Tree climbing experience. The area’s distinctive granite, marked by its coarse texture and warm hue, interacts with the dry desert air—every grip feels sure-footed, every foothold secure. After topping out, descent is managed easily by rappelling off the chains atop the adjacent Soft Cell, which offers a safe and quick exit.

Timing your climb is best during cooler months or early mornings and late afternoons in warmer seasons to avoid the desert midday heat. Footwear with sticky rubber will reward you on the technical stemming sections, and quickdraws for the bolt and pin, alongside a good traditional rack, will keep your safety margins sound. Hydration is key, as the desert environment can rapidly drain your energy.

Death of a Decade is a route that invites intermediate to advanced trad climbers eager to test their stemming skills on a unique feature without the overhead of a long approach or complex descent. Its distinct personality and clean granite make it a worthy addition to any Joshua Tree itinerary focused on movement, precision, and desert climbing rhythm.

Climber Safety

Protection is limited to a single fixed pin and one bolt, so lead climbers must be confident with placing gear in tight stemming positions. The approach is straightforward, but the high desert climate calls for careful attention to hydration and sun exposure.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the desert heat and maximize grip on the granite’s friction.

Use sticky-soled climbing shoes to enhance stability on stemming and smearing sections.

Rappel off the chains atop Soft Cell to descend safely without downclimbing risk.

Hydrate well and carry sun protection; Joshua Tree’s sun can be deceptively intense even on cooler days.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10a, Death of a Decade demands solid stemming technique and core strength throughout the pitch. The grade feels true to its difficulty, with a few crux moves that require precision and effort. Compared to the adjacent Soft Cell (5.10c/d), it offers a slightly less intense technical challenge but remains equally engaging for climbers comfortable in the low 5.10 range.

Gear Requirements

The route features one fixed pin and a bolt. Bring a standard trad rack ranging from 1/2 inch to 3 inches for optimal protection, as placements are varied and essential for safe climbing.

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Tags

stemming
trad
desert granite
single pitch
left-facing dihedral