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Death By Pickies: A Hands-On Challenge on Boulder’s South Flatirons

Boulder, Colorado United States
finger crack
off-width
chimney
long slings
two-pitch
burrs on approach
ragged rock
South Flatirons
Length: 330 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Death By Pickies
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Death By Pickies tests finger cracks and chimney moves over two pitches of solid and occasionally tricky rock in Colorado’s South Flatirons. With thought-provoking protection and an approach that rewards planning, this route is a worthwhile step up for trad climbers ready to dial in their gear skills."

Death By Pickies: A Hands-On Challenge on Boulder’s South Flatirons

Death By Pickies delivers a direct and gritty two-pitch trad climb set against the rugged backdrop of Boulder’s South Flatirons. The name refers less to the climb itself and more to the buggy, burr-covered terrain at the route’s eastern approach, a detail that sets an amusing stage for what to expect. The ascent begins with a short scramble up angled blocks and ferns, landing on a well-protected pedestal where the real climbing starts.

The first pitch tests finger strength and gear placement alike. A finger crack leads up to a mantle on slopers that demand careful footwork and attention to rock quality, which here varies from solid to a bit crumbly. Climbers can choose to traverse slightly right into a low-angle corner before moving into a right-facing off-width pod—a section famous for its hidden two-finger pocket that eases the difficulty and lends confidence during the crux sequence. Stem moves here require a #4 Camalot for secure protection, and long slings are a must to reduce rope drag through the twisting sequences.

After tackling this challenging section, you’ll pull over a bulge on steady jugs, meander left, then ascend to a roomy ledge about 20 meters above the start. If rope drag is pressing, the ledge provides a convenient belay station, but pushing on gains access to a slot and chimney system that offers some of the strongest rock on the route and more consistent placements. The belay at this point rests on solid gear including a red tricam and a range of cams, comfortable enough for a short break and route planning.

Pitch two lowers the technical demand to 5.7 but expands in length, guiding you through the slot and out onto a broad sloping ramp classed as 4th class terrain. This ramp forms the shoulder of the formation and approaches the summit with options for sling belays secured on large horns. The gear here can be challenging to spot for newer climbers but is solid once found. A cordalette is recommended for final adjustments.

The descent requires care and planning: a westward move to a short rappel station, followed by a second rappel south to a large evergreen tree. Replace quickdraws with steel links or rings if you prefer extra reliability. The route’s rappelling demands a 70m rope—shorter ropes necessitate downclimbing that amplifies risk, especially for less experienced parties. Watching your line carefully during the rappel minimizes rope snags and maximizes safety.

Death By Pickies offers an authentic South Flatirons experience with enough variety in placements, cracks, and chimneys to keep a trad climber engaged and thinking throughout. Though the approach may introduce some pesky plant life, a more direct trail avoids the pickies entirely, making the journey up less of a chore if desired. With the right protection and an eye for route-finding, this climb stands as a rewarding challenge just south of Boulder, marrying technical climbing with a straightforward descent and solid rock. It’s a compelling option for those looking to extend their crack climbing skills while enjoying the bold exposure of Colorado’s iconic sandstone walls.

Climber Safety

Rock quality varies along the route—expect mostly solid stone but take extra care on the less stable slopers and mantle near the off-width. Approach with caution around the burr-covered east side, and ensure rappels are done with a 70m rope to avoid difficult downclimbing exposed terrain.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length330 feet

Local Tips

Avoid the east approach infested with tiny burrs by using the pickup-free trail described in the route location.

Prepare for the crux on pitch one with a #4 Camalot and long slings to reduce drag from twisting placements.

Bring steel links or rings for rappel anchors to increase gear longevity and safety.

Use a 70m rope to complete rappels without risky downclimbing.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 PG13 rating for Death By Pickies is generally accurate, with the off-width section on pitch one serving as the crux. While the finger cracks and mantel sections hover around 5.9 difficulty, the hidden two-finger pocket softens the overall feel. Protection is straightforward but requires attention and long slings to avoid drag. Compared to nearby 5.9 climbs in the Flatirons, this route feels slightly more sustained with a mix of crack sizes and chimneys, rewarding stick placements and secure movement.

Gear Requirements

Standard light rack covering tiny to #3 Camalot cams, one set of nuts, and optional red tricam. Long slings are essential to manage rope drag. Bring a 70m rope to ensure safe rappels.

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Tags

finger crack
off-width
chimney
long slings
two-pitch
burrs on approach
ragged rock
South Flatirons