"Dealers Choice offers a compelling trad climb on The Hex Wall’s jagged granite, perfect for climbers honing crack skills. A single pitch with a classic crack line challenges gear placement and footwork within the scenic wilderness of Welsford, New Brunswick."
Set against the raw, granite angles of The Hex Wall at Eagle Rock, Dealers Choice offers a compact but engaging trad climb in New Brunswick’s rugged backcountry. Approaching this route, the forest loosens, giving way to an austere rock face with clear cracks beckoning to be climbed. The ascent begins along a distinct crack just right of a corner feature—a natural invitation to test your crack climbing skills and gear placements. Pulling onto a small ledge, you’ll make steady progress by leveraging both the face crack and the corner crack in unison, balancing delicate footwork with confident hand jams.
For climbers seeking a sharper challenge, a notable variation bypasses the corner crack entirely, pushing the route into low 5.10 territory. This adjustment demands precise gear placement and steady technique to navigate thinner holds and more exposed moves that require full focus. A good rack with a selection of cams and nuts is essential to protect the climb effectively.
Though the route is a single pitch stretching about 25 feet, the quality of rock and the technical demands make Dealers Choice a memorable outing. The granite here feels solid under hand and foot, though it tests setup on gear, rewarding careful placements with peace of mind. The surrounding landscape is quietly commanding—an open sky above and scattered stands of spruce framing your vertical challenge. Birdsong and the whisper of the wind bring life to the scene, offering moments to catch your breath and take in the stillness.
Getting here requires a moderate trek through trails that are mostly well-marked, but variable underfoot with roots and rocks. Conditions can shift quickly, so timing your climb when the rock is dry is key. Early morning or late afternoon sessions provide cooler temperatures and striking shadows that highlight the crack systems.
Dealers Choice presents a solid introduction to trad climbing on New Brunswick’s classic granite, rewarding focused effort and careful route reading. Whether you choose the traditional crack line or the more technical off-corner variation, this route challenges you to read the rock and trust your placements. It’s an accessible test for climbers with some crack climbing experience looking to sharpen their trad skills in a striking wilderness setting.
Plan to bring a rack suited for finger to hand-sized gear, a helmet, and sturdy shoes with sticky rubber. Hydrate and pace yourself—while short, the climb demands full attention. With its combination of tactile crack climbing, straightforward length, and a scenic outdoor setting, Dealers Choice is a route that invites return trips and confident sends in the heart of Welsford’s climbing landscape.
Watch for loose rocks near the ledge and double-check all gear placements. The short but technical nature means falls can be serious if protection isn’t solid. The approach trail can be slippery after rain; wear appropriate footwear.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat and maximize rock dry time.
Ensure cams are snug in the crack—placements can be subtle but crucial.
Scout the approach trail on a map before heading out; trails vary in condition.
The off-corner variation increases difficulty and requires advanced gear skills.
Bring a well-rounded trad rack with cams ranging from small to medium sizes; the crack system demands reliable gear placements. Sturdy shoes and a helmet are recommended due to the exposed nature of the climb.
Upload your photos of Dealers Choice and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.