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Deadhead: Bold Trad Climb in Deadwood Gulch

Silverton, Colorado United States
horizontal cracks
orange face
single pitch
trad
silverton
moderate grade
Length: 160 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Deadhead
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Deadhead is a compelling single-pitch trad climb along an orange face just right of a large dihedral. Its horizontal cracks and solid protection create an accessible yet engaging challenge for climbers around the 5.8 grade."

Deadhead: Bold Trad Climb in Deadwood Gulch

Deadhead offers an inviting adventure on a vibrant orange face that stands out sharply against the rugged backdrop of Silverton’s steep terrain. Located in the lesser-traveled corners of Deadwood Gulch, this single-pitch trad climb stretches 160 feet and showcases horizontal cracks that challenge your gear placements and technique alike. As you ascend past the expansive dihedral to the left, the rock’s texture shifts from smooth to crisply fractured, offering an engaging rhythm to the moves. The protection is a straightforward blend of bolts and traditional gear placements up to 2 inches, making for a route that balances safety with adventurous route-finding.

The approach to Deadhead is short but requires focus—the trail leads through mixed forest and open rock fields where pine needles crunch beneath your boots, and mountain air carries the subtle scent of damp earth. This climb sits at an elevation of roughly 7,600 feet, meaning dry summer days are perfect for tackling the route with comfortable conditions. The rock face catches the afternoon sun, warming the holds just enough to provide secure friction without draining your energy.

Deadhead’s 5.8 rating masks some moderate challenges, particularly where horizontal cracks demand precise hand jams and footwork. Unlike the often overgraded or soft climbs in the area, this route’s grade feels honest and earned, rewarding steady movement and confident gear placement. The final section pushes slightly harder, inviting a careful sequence to finish smoothly atop a ledge that offers sweeping views of Silverton’s rugged peaks.

Gear-wise, a standard trad rack with a focus on smaller cams (up to 2 inches) is optimal, alongside quickdraws to clip the fixed bolts confidently. The bolts are well spaced, but not so close as to remove the adventure element. Expect to work your fingers and feet, especially on the horizontal breaks that test your technique more than brute strength.

Local climbers recommend starting early in the day to avoid the heat that builds on the bright face, and carrying plenty of water, as shade is scarce on the route. The descent is straightforward—downclimb the easy slabs back to the base, taking care over loose rock near the landing zone.

Overall, Deadhead offers a clear, accessible trad climb that blends classic crack climbing with a striking natural setting. It’s well suited for intermediate climbers stepping into more serious trad or for visitors seeking a solid outing with a strong sense of place. Whether it’s your first trad lead or a welcomed return, the route’s combination of tactical climbing and scenic exposure is sure to reward your effort.

Climber Safety

While protection is well spaced with bolts and solid gear placements, careful attention is required on horizontal cracks to ensure gear is securely seated. Loose rock near the base demands caution during approach and descent to avoid falls or dislodged stones.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length160 feet

Local Tips

Start your climb early to avoid afternoon heat on the sun-exposed face.

Bring a standard trad rack emphasizing small to medium cams (up to 2 inches).

Stay vigilant on gear placements—horizontal cracks require precise jams for security.

Descend via easy downclimbing slabs; watch for loose rock near the base.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating is honest and straightforward, reflecting a route that rewards solid crack climbing technique without any traps or overly stiff sequences. This climb feels fair compared to other moderate trad routes in the Silverton area, with a crux near the top that tests your finger strength and movement precision.

Gear Requirements

Bolts supplement traditional protection, with cams up to 2 inches fitting nicely into the horizontal cracks. Prepare for few fixed pieces but expect good placements throughout.

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Tags

horizontal cracks
orange face
single pitch
trad
silverton
moderate grade