"Dead Letter Department invites climbers to explore varied corners, fingers, and chimneys on Eldorado's West Ridge. With solid protection and a balanced challenge, this two-pitch trad climb offers engaging moves and a memorable descent through exposed ramps."
Dead Letter Department offers a refreshing change of pace for climbers seeking a moderately challenging trad climb with varied moves and solid protection within Eldorado Canyon State Park. Located on the broad West Ridge, this two-pitch route ascends approximately 200 feet through a sequence of corners and chimneys that demand both technical skill and strategic gear placement, rewarding climbers with a dynamic and engaging experience.
The climb starts at the large left-facing corner on the right edge of the Mescaline Wall. Though the official path nudges up an off-width crack at the base, many find it more practical to veer slightly left onto a steep, right-facing corner that incorporates a finger crack—a move more approachable for the 5.8 climber. This opening section sets the tone with varied holds that keep your hands and feet actively engaged.
Above, an easier section gives way to a steeper and more intimidating corner. Despite its bold appearance, footholds on the right wall provide crucial balance, making the climb feel accessible rather than overwhelming. Approaching the top of the corner, you’ll traverse right onto a slab that softens the route’s intensity momentarily before confronting one of the climb’s signature challenges: a narrow chimney that, despite its foreboding look, can be climbed easily using face holds once you slip inside.
Past the chimney, the rock quality lessens as you enter a distinctive tall red band where the route’s line becomes less obvious. Navigating just right of a lone pine tree, you angle left around the corner to reach a comfortable belay ledge—a well-earned resting point after the more exposed earlier sections. The second pitch moves left again for a short but rewarding climb leading to the walk-off.
The descent is part of the character here—working your way left (north), the terrain demands care due to exposure and loose rock. The approach involves a drop down a ramp with 3rd class terrain where falling would result in serious injury; beginners should strongly consider the use of a rope for added security. The final scramble past a chockstone involves a few moves rated around 5.5, rounding out the adventure with a touch of technical scrambling before reaching the ground.
Protection on Dead Letter Department is straightforward, with a standard rack covering most placements. If you intend to tackle the off-width start, bring larger gear accordingly. Fortunately, gear placements remain consistent and reliable throughout, allowing you to focus on climbing efficiently without unnecessary gear anxiety.
For those exploring Eldorado Canyon, this route showcases a balance of technical variety and climbing flow without veering into overly difficult terrain. The setting in Eldorado State Park places you amid dramatic cliffs and sweeping views characteristic of Colorado’s Front Range, offering plenty of opportunity to absorb the natural sounds of the canyon as the wind swirls and distant birds slice through the clean air.
Whether you’re aiming to sharpen your crack and corner skills or seeking a climb that merges adventurous movement with practical safety, Dead Letter Department is a solid choice on Eldorado’s West Ridge. Its approachable difficulty rating and diverse features make it ideal for climbers ready to push beyond the sport scene and master traditional protection in one of Colorado’s iconic climbing areas.
The descent features exposed 3rd class terrain and loose rock ramps that demand careful foot placement and focus. Falling here could lead to severe injury, so less experienced climbers should consider lowering with a rope or downclimbing with a partner.
Start on the right-facing corner/finger crack instead of the off-width for a smoother ascent.
Use footholds on the right wall to steady yourself on the steep corner pitch.
Exercise caution on the descent ramp; falling here would be serious—carry a rope if unsure.
Approach quietly to avoid dislodging rocks in the popular Mescaline Wall area.
A standard rack covers most placements comfortably. For those attempting the off-width start, bring larger cams to protect that section safely.
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