"Dead Kennedys stands out as a clean, engaging 100-foot trad climb on a sharp arete in Silverton’s Deadwood Gulch. It blends solid protection and steady movement for climbers seeking a confident 5.8 pitch with strong natural lines and crisp holds."
Standing at the foot of Dead Kennedys, you’re immediately drawn to the striking arete that edges the right side of a sharp pillar in Deadwood Gulch. This single-pitch climb, stretching about 100 feet, offers a straightforward yet engaging route for those seeking a classic Colorado trad experience. The rock's texture invites confident hands and feet, with generous, solid holds that feel alive under your fingers—bulging cracks give way to broad edges that allow for steady upward progress. As you ascend, the dry mountain air mixes with the faint scent of pine and earth, while the silent expanse of the Silverton area stretches out around you, framing the climb with rugged peaks and vast blue skies.
Rated at 5.8, Dead Kennedys delivers a comfortable challenge without overwhelming complexity, ideal for climbers refining their trad skills or those after a refreshing pitch away from the buzz of busier areas. Protection is straightforward— gear placements up to 0.5 inches fit well into the rock, though the arete’s nature requires some patience in placing solid pro. The rock quality is consistent, offering reassuring stability in every move. Midway up, the climbing tempo settles into a rhythm—steady and methodical—allowing you to appreciate the quiet pulse of the mountain.
The approach is equally inviting, accessible via well-trodden trails in Deadwood Gulch. It’s a short hike through rugged brush and pine, with an elevation that gently warms the calves and sharpens the senses. Early morning starts are wise to catch the wall in soft, indirect light, avoiding afternoon heat that can sap grip and energy. After summiting, a simple walk-off returns you swiftly to your starting point, making Dead Kennedys a perfect option for a quick, rewarding climb when time is short or when you want to savor the mountain’s calm without the commitment of multi-pitch adventure.
For gear, bring a standard trad rack with emphasis on smaller cams; the route favors placements between small nuts and medium-sized wires. A half rack in the 0.3" to 0.5" range covers the critical spots. While this climb isn’t technically demanding, solid footwork and tested crack skills boost confidence and fluidity on the arete’s crisp edges.
Dead Kennedys is a welcome detour in the Silverton climbing scene—accessible but rich with natural character and quiet beauty. It’s a climb that speaks to the climber who appreciates tactile rock, clear lines, and a moment to breathe deeply in Colorado’s alpine environment. Whether you’re dialing in your trad technique or just chasing that perfect, solitary pitch, this route provides a sturdy and scenic challenge that rewards attention and care.
Although the rock is solid and reliable, placing pro thoughtfully is essential because some placements are a bit sparse along the arete's edge. Watch out for loose debris near the base and keep an eye on the descent trail, which can be slippery if wet.
Start early to avoid afternoon sun warming the rock excessively.
Bring gear focused on smaller cams, as protection opportunities favor pieces up to 0.5".
Footwear with sticky rubber helps maintain grip on the arete's sharp edges.
Be prepared for a short walk-off descent after the climb; no rappel needed.
Standard trad rack focusing on small to medium cams from 0.3" to 0.5" sizes will secure the easy placements along the arete. Expect straightforward pro with solid rock quality.
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