HomeClimbingDead Deer Cracks

Dead Deer Cracks Trad Climb in South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon

Lyons, Colorado United States
crack climbing
traditional protection
single pitch
granite
moderate difficulty
Lyons Colorado
south fork
front range
Length: 75 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Dead Deer Cracks
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Dead Deer Cracks offers a concise, skillful trad climb in South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon. A clean, jam-friendly line that challenges crack technique on solid granite, perfect for climbers seeking a focused, single-pitch adventure just outside Lyons, Colorado."

Dead Deer Cracks Trad Climb in South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon

Dead Deer Cracks offers climbers a direct, satisfying venture into the heart of South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon just outside Lyons, Colorado. This one-pitch, 75-foot traditional climb traces an unmistakable crack system left of the popular Iced Tea route, guiding you up a sequence of jams and rests that demand steady technique and focus. From the first hand jam past a broad and welcoming section to the twin cracks that push you toward the anchors above, the climb feels straightforward on paper but rewards thoughtful gear placements and body positioning.

The rock here is solid, textured granite that listens as you slide cams into its folds—particularly a set of cams up to a #4 C4, which provides reliable protection if placed attentively. The climb is short enough to be done on a half-day trip but engaging enough to sharpen crack climbing skills. The canyon itself pulses with quiet energy: the rustling trees frame the ascent while the distant murmur of the river challenges you to focus and steady your breath.

The descent from Dead Deer Cracks is manageable with a rappel from a two-bolt anchor at the route's summit. Given the exposure and location, it’s best to rappel with tidy gear management to avoid snags and ensure a smooth exit. The south-facing wall bakes in the afternoon sun, so early starts can help avoid overheating on sunny summer days. Spring and fall offer cooler temperatures that align well with this moderate approach.

Approach-wise, expect a moderately sustained hike through forested stretches and along the South Fork trail, with clear signage marking access points near Lyons. The route’s position within the St. Vrain Canyons means you’re surrounded by sweeping views of the Front Range, lending a spacious backdrop to your vertical challenge. Whether it’s your first foray into traditional climbing or a warm-up before more demanding pitches, Dead Deer Cracks strikes a balance of accessible exposure and technical engagement. Pack light but smart: quality cams, solid climbing shoes, and layers to adjust to mountain microclimates will set you up for success here.

With a rating of 5.9, the climb sits comfortably at the cusp of moderate difficulty, featuring a moderate crux in the twin crack section that tests both technique and confidence. Nine local votes have given it an average 1.8-star rating—likely reflecting its straightforward nature and brief length rather than its quality. The route’s compactness and clear protection opportunities make it a good confidence builder for trad climbers moving beyond sport routes.

In essence, Dead Deer Cracks invites climbers to engage with the rock’s natural features in a site rich with Colorado’s rugged appeal—quiet, practical, and waiting for your first jams to awaken the stone.

Climber Safety

Despite its moderate length, climbers should exercise care with gear placements on wider crack sections where cams can be harder to secure. The rappel anchor is two bolts—inspect it closely before use. Approach trails can be slippery when wet, so watch your footing especially during wet seasons or after rain.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length75 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the afternoon sun on this south-facing wall.

Carry a rappel device for the two-bolt anchor descent; double-check anchor integrity before rappelling.

Wear shoes with good edging and jamming capability to handle varied crack widths.

Prepare for a moderate trail approach; durable footwear is recommended for the mixed terrain.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated at 5.9, Dead Deer Cracks offers a moderately challenging sequence with a crux concentrated in the twin cracks near the top. The grade feels fair with some testers noting it as slightly soft, making it approachable for climbers transitioning from sport or beginner trad climbs. Its straightforward nature aligns well with other local 5.9 routes in the Front Range, providing clean vertical experience without surprises.

Gear Requirements

A full single set of cams up to #4 C4 is essential for protection. The rock’s texture allows for secure placements, but placement judgment is crucial around the wider crack sections. A traditional rack focusing on solid camming devices will keep your ascent safe.

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Tags

crack climbing
traditional protection
single pitch
granite
moderate difficulty
Lyons Colorado
south fork
front range