"Davis' Dirty Crack challenges climbers with a three-pitch trad route rich in texture and hands-on action. From clearing grass-choked placements to managing mixed pro, it offers a grounded but spirited trad experience on Buena Vista’s textured pillar."
Davis' Dirty Crack offers climbers an engaging, moderately paced trad climbing experience along the left side of a rugged pillar on the Davis Face near Buena Vista, Colorado. This three-pitch route is defined by its distinctive crack—broad enough to accommodate a variety of gear yet earnestly demanding due to accumulated grass and dirt compacting inside the placements. The climb invites you into a tactile dialogue with the rock, as clearing the crack of greenery becomes part of the challenge, pushing leaders into the realm of adventurous route-cleaning. Expect hands and fingers at work not only in climbing but also in ‘gardening’ the crack mid-ascent, a task that underscores the natural volatility of the route.
The route culminates on a two-bolt anchor set atop the pillar, providing secure belay positions and a satisfying conclusion to the climb. A single 60-meter rope is ample for the descent and the pitches, making rope management straightforward. Climbers generally bring a standard rack; a single set of cams and nuts is sufficient, though some smaller pro will be required to confidently protect the route's varied cracks.
Buena Vista’s backdrop contributes a rugged, high-country atmosphere to the climb. The Davis Face looms in broad daylight with sun warming the rock in the afternoon, while shadows lengthen as the day edges towards evening, making timing key for comfortable climbing temperatures. The approach to the pillar crosses mixed terrain—mostly firm but with patches of loose talus and brush—requiring careful footing and steady steps.
This climb appeals to those looking for a route that offers more than straightforward hand and finger jams. The pressure to maintain clean protection placements with a nut tool adds an element of route stewardship and problem-solving. It’s a hands-on challenge that blends physical movement with practical smarts. The gritty character of the crack, the need to manage gear carefully, and the remote yet accessible setting make Davis' Dirty Crack a rewarding adventure for moderate trad climbers seeking to leave their mark on an uncrowded line.
Be cautious on approach as terrain includes loose rock and scrubby sections; always test footholds carefully. On route, watch for insecure gear placements due to grass and dirt—do not rely solely on questionable cams without cleaning. Anchor bolts are solid but double-check your knots and communication with your partner.
Start climbing in mid to late morning to avoid the cold morning shadow.
Bring a nut tool to help clean grass and dirt from the crack.
Use a single 60m rope to comfortably manage all pitches and the descent.
Wear shoes with good edging—rock is textured but greasy in spots where grass grows.
Bring a standard trad rack—cams and nuts will cover most placements. Clean small to medium cams carefully, since grass and dirt often fill key cam placements. A nut tool is strongly recommended for clearing and securing gear on lead.
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