"Dave's Deviation blends precise finger jams with technical face moves across three engaging pitches on Tahquitz's West Face. This trad climb challenges while offering secure protection and stunning desert views, perfect for climbers seeking a classic California route."
Dave's Deviation offers a classic three-pitch trad climb on the rugged West Face of Tahquitz Rock, delivering solid granite challenges framed by towering desert vistas. Beginning just right of The Jam Crack, the route anchors itself on clean finger and thin hand cracks that require finesse and focused technique. The first pitch, rated 5.9, pulls you into a rhythm of precise jamming with the rock’s sharp edges crisply defined under the desert sun. This pitch rewards you with confident protection placements and steady climbing that feels both secure and engaging. From this vantage, the landscape opens with sprawling views of the surrounding canyonlands and distant ridges, offering a moment to breathe before the next challenge.
Pitch two picks up where the belay ledge leaves off, moving left from the first pitch’s finale. The climbing here feels less continuous but tests your ability to transition smoothly from crack jams into face moves. A narrow groove guides you upward, culminating in a key, technical move over a steep overhang that demands balance and precision—read your body position carefully and trust your foot placements. While this section lightens the sustained effort, the subtle complexity of the moves keeps it engaging for all levels.
The final pitch descends slightly in difficulty at 5.8 but comes with a drawback: sparse protection opportunities make it feel runout and thus calls for extra attention when leading. The climb follows a thin dihedral that merges into face climbing just before reaching the Pine Tree Ledge. Here, the rock feels older, worn in by countless ascents, and requires careful route finding to stay safe and efficient. This pitch closes the climb with a satisfying mix of crack and face techniques, challenging your judgment and nerve.
A standard trad rack covers all gear needs on this route, but bring extra small cams to handle tricky placements on the last pitch. The approach is straightforward from the main Tahquitz trail, a well-trodden path that climbs steadily through desert brush and scattered pines. Allow about 20 minutes from the parking area, with coordinates placing you precisely for a smooth start. Consider starting early to avoid afternoon heat and to take advantage of morning shadows that soften grip temperatures.
Descent follows a short scramble to Pine Tree Ledge, then a well-marked trail down and back to the base, making the day manageable even for less experienced parties. Local climbers appreciate Dave’s Deviation for its blend of solid crack climbing and subtle face moves, perched in one of California’s most historic climbing areas. Whether exploring trad skills or seeking a moderate multi-pitch with trustworthy protection, this route provides an accessible gauge of desert granite adventure.
Pitch three demands heightened caution; protection is limited and you're exposed on thin dihedral and face sequences. Careful gear placement and conservative movement are essential to avoid long falls. Watch for loose rock near the belay ledge and stay aware of the heat during midday climbs.
Start early to beat the afternoon heat and take advantage of morning shade on the West Face.
Double-check your gear placements on pitch three due to limited protection opportunities.
Approach via the main Tahquitz trail, which takes about 20 minutes from the parking area.
Bring traction-friendly shoes for scrambling off via Pine Tree Ledge during descent.
A standard trad rack covers this route, with an emphasis on small cams for the sparse protection on the final pitch. Bring a full set from micro to mid-sized camming devices and a collection of nuts to cover the finger cracks.
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