"Darkness at Teatime offers a dynamic single-pitch sport climb on Electric Avenue's south wall, blending flowing lower-angle moves with a demanding upper crux. It’s a must-try for climbers seeking a focused 5.11a challenge in Squamish’s iconic Sea to Sky corridor."
Electric Avenue’s south wall offers a uniquely rewarding experience for sport climbers who appreciate a blend of fluid movement and technical challenge. Darkness at Teatime stakes its claim as the leftmost route on this wall, just around the bend from the familiar West side. The climb begins with a section of lower-angle terrain that encourages smooth, flowing motion—each reach and shift feels purposeful, inviting you to warm into the rhythm of the rock. As you ascend, the route intensifies, transitioning abruptly into a crux that demands precision and strength on steeper terrain near the top.
Spanning roughly 90 feet over a single pitch, this 5.11a challenge tests your ability to maintain control and composure as the angle steepens and the holds become more demanding. It’s a route that rewards careful footwork and confident clipping, with 15 bolts lining the wall and leading reliably to the chains. The spacing of bolts offers reassurance while still allowing the thrill of connecting moves without pause.
Set within the Sea to Sky corridor, between Squamish and Whistler, the approach brings you into a climbing community rich with vertical lines shaped by coastal influences. The rock here is pristine and solid, ideal for sport climbing, and the south-facing wall basks in sun for much of the day. Expect bright conditions and good temperatures in spring through fall, making it a dependable choice for climbers looking to push their limits without battling cold or damp surfaces.
Getting here means following accessible trails that wind through forested sections—pines and firs seem to lean toward the wall, their branches nodding in quiet encouragement. The space around Electric Avenue retains a calm, almost meditative vibe, contrasting with the intensity of the route itself. Whether you’re warming up or ticking off a project, Darkness at Teatime offers an experience that’s both technically engaging and rewarding in its flow.
Prepare with shoes that provide excellent edging capability and chalk to manage the steeper sections. Clipping is straightforward but be ready for a physical crux where balance and power converge. As always, hydrate well and start early to enjoy optimal conditions and minimize crowding. This route is an invitation to engage directly with the rock, testing mental focus as much as physical agility in one seamless push toward the chains.
While the bolts are well-spaced and reliable, the transition to the steeper upper section requires controlled clipping and secure foot placement. Watch for slightly polished holds near the crux and maintain three points of contact to reduce slip risk.
Arrive early to avoid peak crowds and enjoy quieter climbing.
Wear climbing shoes with strong edging support for the steep crux.
Chalk up well before the crux to maintain grip on smaller holds.
Spring to fall offers the best weather; afternoon sun warms the south-facing wall.
Fully bolted sport route with 15 bolts protecting the entire climb. Top anchors consist of chains for straightforward lowering.
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