"Dark Matter offers a compact yet demanding trad climb featuring wide-hand jams and a tricky traverse beneath a roof. This short pitch packs considerable punch, rewarding precision gear placement and solid technique."
Dark Matter carves out a tight, potent climb amid the towering granite walls of the Highlander area near Squamish, British Columbia. This single-pitch trad route, though brief at 40 feet, demands strength and finesse through its wide hand jams and technical sequences. The climb launches from a left-facing corner crowded with loose blocks, challenging your footwork and composure from the start. Ascending into a finger-busting wide crack that obliges solid jam placements, the route pushes upward into protection friendly for #3 Camalots before reaching a well-protected roof. Here you’ll make a committed traverse left to find a strenuous stance—an essential rest before the final push. The last section proceeds rightward through a jam crack that appears straightforward but hides tricky moves that test your patience and technique.
The rock’s raw personality is evident in every hold and fissure; it dares you to trust your gear and body amid the high-tension atmosphere of this short but intense climb. Protection placement is critical—two #3 Camalots are must-haves, alongside a #4 to secure the lower section where the protection options narrow. Slings will save you from rope drag by extending around the roof’s lip, and the rappel anchors with rap rings ensure a safe descent.
Approaching Dark Matter involves trekking into the Highlander area, an accessible but slightly rugged terrain offering a raw wilderness feel close to civilization. The granite here demands respect but rewards with solid rock and clear, direct moves. This route is perfect for intermediate to advanced climbers looking for a punchy test of power and technique, without the commitment of a long multi-pitch. Plan for dry conditions, wear sticky shoes suited for jamming, and prepare your rack thoughtfully. With a bit of effort and focus, Dark Matter will deliver a memorable climb packed into a compact and thrilling package.
The initial corner contains loose blocks that require careful foot placement and awareness. Protection in the roof traverse must be solid and extended well to avoid rope drag that can pull anchors. Avoid climbing in wet conditions to prevent slippery jams and unsafe gear placements.
Bring sticky shoes that perform well on wide cracks to maximize jamming efficiency.
Check conditions before going—wet granite can make jams painfully slick and unsafe.
Use slings to reduce rope drag especially around the roof section during the traverse.
Approach early in the day to avoid afternoon shadows and cooler rock temperatures.
Essential gear includes two #3 Camalots and a #4 placed low; slings are vital for extending protection around the roof to minimize rope drag. The anchor features rap rings on hangers for a smooth rappel.
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