5.9-, Trad, TR
Placerville
California ,USA
"Dan's Delight offers a short but engaging fist crack on the left edge of the Great Flake. Perfect for climbers looking to hone crack skills in a stunning granite gorge setting."
Situated at the far left edge of the Great Flake in the Cosumnes River Gorge, Dan's Delight offers a concise but memorable crack climb that rewards those seeking a brief bout of hand-jamming action. This short, predominantly fist-width crack invites climbers to engage with its texture and rhythm, providing a playful contrast to longer, more demanding routes nearby. The atmosphere around the Great Flake is rugged yet accessible, framed by the raw granite faces that rise sharply above the placid flow of the Cosumnes River below.
Though the climb stretches only 20 feet, every move counts. The crack’s generous width lets you sink your fists comfortably, giving a satisfying grip with every upward reach. The climb demands a focus on hand placement and body positioning, making it a perfect warm-up or quick project on a day packed with adventure. From the top anchors, shared with the adjacent route 'Training Pants,' the surrounding views stretch across the Highway 50 corridor toward Lake Tahoe’s grandeur— a reminder of the expansive wilderness tucked just beyond the climbing zone.
Approaching Dan's Delight involves a careful bypass around the Great Flake, either hugging the side trails to the back or navigating the rocky terrain directly behind. The walking access is manageable but requires attention to footing, especially when carrying gear. Climbers should equip themselves with cams up to 4 inches to adequately protect this trad route. Given the short length and reachable anchors, a top-rope setup is practical for less experienced climbers or those scouting the line.
Timing your climb during late spring to early fall ensures dry rock and gentle temperatures. The wall catches sunlight throughout the day, but early morning sessions offer cooler conditions and quieter surroundings. The granite surfaces maintain solid friction, but damp conditions after rainfall can render the crack slick, adding an extra layer of challenge.
Safety around Dan’s Delight hinges on cautious movement to the top anchors as the walking approach involves uneven ground and some loose rock. Once on the route, the gear placements are straightforward, making it a reliable climb for those refining their crack techniques. Since the pitch is short, don’t expect an extended battle; instead, appreciate this route as a rapid burst of granite wrestling in an inspiring setting.
Whether you’re passing through the Cosumnes River Gorge for a day of climbing or seeking a quick, technical climb to sharpen your skills, Dan’s Delight delivers a concentrated dose of crack climbing with a backdrop of natural beauty. Prepare well, pack your fists, and take on this brief but spirited climb that beckons with clear intention and approachable adventure.
Watch footing on the approach to the top anchors; terrain can be loose and uneven. Ensure gear placements are snug, as the protection zones can feel sparse given the short length. Post-rain conditions require extra caution due to slick granite surfaces.
Approach the anchors by circling the Great Flake rather than climbing directly up.
Early mornings provide cooler temps and less crowded conditions.
Check the weather; granite can become slippery after rain.
Carry a cam rack including sizes up to 4 inches for secure placements.
Use cams up to 4 inches for protection. The route shares top anchors with 'Training Pants'. To access the anchors, walk around either side to the back of the Great Flake before climbing up.
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