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Dandelion - Trad Climbing on The Old Woman West Face

Twentynine Palms, California United States
handcrack
smear moves
single pitch
low traffic
Joshua Tree
granite
bolt protection
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Dandelion
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Tucked on the south side of The Old Woman, Dandelion offers 80 feet of engaging trad climbing. With a smooth handcrack leading into delicate smear moves protected by a bolt, it challenges climbers seeking a quieter line in Joshua Tree’s iconic granite."

Dandelion - Trad Climbing on The Old Woman West Face

Dandelion stands quietly on the southern flank of The Old Woman, a stalwart sentinel within Joshua Tree National Park’s rugged landscape. This single-pitch trad climb stretches 80 feet, offering a textured handcrack that arcs upward and right, presenting a compelling crux that beckons climbers to test their finesse and strength. The route begins with a solid handcrack, perfectly sized for hands and fingers, weaving across a lower-angle ramp where protection becomes sparse as the crack thins out. Here, the rock demands both patience and precision, the climber’s movements deliberate against the smooth granite surface. Near the top, a fixed bolt provides much-needed security, guarding the final smear moves that lead to a roomy ledge shared with the nearby Toe Jam route.

Approaching the climb is refreshingly straightforward—minimal bushwhacking or scrambling interferes with your focus on the rock. After topping out, climbers sidestep roughly 15 feet to rappel from bolted anchors on Bearded Cabbage, a process that loops you neatly back toward your pack. The setting, perched in the heart of Joshua Tree, carries all the park’s signature elements: sun-drenched granite, crisp desert air, and the occasional wind that dares you to keep moving upward.

Though Dandelion doesn’t often claim the spotlight, its consistency and unique character hold their own against more trafficked routes like Orphan. The relatively low traffic means a quieter experience, ideal for climbers seeking a peaceful challenge without compromising on technical intrigue. The climb requires traditional gear up to 3 inches and a 3/8-inch bolt, ensuring solid protection when placed thoughtfully. For those comfortable with sustained crack climbing and smears, this route offers an engaging outing that blends technical climbing with straightforward logistics. Timing your ascent for the cooler morning hours can make the desert sun bearable, while evenings grant spectacular views as the last light washes over the valley.

Preparation is key: bring shoes with good edging capability and be ready for sparse protection on parts of the ramp. Hydration, sun protection, and awareness of the fragile desert environment will enhance your day. Dandelion rewards the climber who approaches with respect and controlled enthusiasm—a climb that nudges both skill and self-reliance, set amidst the timeless granite walls of Joshua Tree.

Climber Safety

The approach is easy but watch for loose rocks near the base. Protection can be sparse on the ramp where the crack fades, requiring precise gear placements to ensure safety. Be cautious when placing cams in thin cracks and always double-check bolt integrity near the summit.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the midday desert heat and climb in comfortable temperatures.

Wear approach shoes for the short but rocky walk to the base of the climb.

Place protection carefully on the ramp where cracks fade; these sections are trickier for gear.

Plan your rappel from the bolted anchors atop Bearded Cabbage, located about 15 feet from the top landing.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a rating accurately reflects the route’s key challenges: a technical handcrack crux followed by thin protection and smear moves that demand balance and footwork finesse. While the grade feels true to standard, the crux section near the crack’s bend is the hardest, requiring controlled technique. Compared to Orphan, Dandelion offers a less strenuous, more fluid sequence without the thrutchy jams and jams and less crowded rope lanes.

Gear Requirements

Bring protection sized up to 3 inches alongside a 3/8 inch bolt near the summit. Expect gear placements to thin out near the ramp section, so plan accordingly with well-sized cams and nuts.

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Tags

handcrack
smear moves
single pitch
low traffic
Joshua Tree
granite
bolt protection