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Dancing in the Moonlight: A 3-Pitch Sport Climb in Big Thompson Canyon

Estes Park, Colorado USA
sport climb
multi-pitch
south-facing
granite
Big Thompson Canyon
technical crux
two-chain anchors
Colorado
Length: 135 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
Dancing in the Moonlight
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Dancing in the Moonlight unfurls across three spirited pitches on Moonlight Rock’s south face. This 5.9-PG13 sport climb blends approachable technical moves with scenic climbs in Big Thompson Canyon, perfect for those ready to explore multi-pitch sport routes with dependable protection and engaging challenges."

Dancing in the Moonlight: A 3-Pitch Sport Climb in Big Thompson Canyon

Dancing in the Moonlight presents an inviting climb for those drawn to a moderate sport route with varied terrain and a close connection to Colorado’s rugged landscape. Set within Moonlight Rock in the Mary’s Bust Area of Big Thompson Canyon, this three-pitch climb stretches 135 feet along clean, bolted lines that challenge with a 5.9-PG13 rating—accessible yet thought-provoking. The route starts on the south side of the rock beneath a sequence of six bolts, where the first pitch weaves upward along a shallow, natural water runnel that occasionally catches sunlight, hinting at the route’s name. Midway up this pitch, a technical crux demands steady footwork and identity with the rock’s subtle textures before reaching a two-chain belay positioned just 20 feet left of the last bolt.

The second pitch continues pulling upward on a direct line marked by five bolts, offering a brief but deliberate test of endurance as you settle into the rhythm of clipping and movement. This stretch leads to a well-secured two-chain anchor roughly 100 feet from the start. The closing pitch traces the left edge of a summit boulder, where two bolts punctuate the final 25 feet before another two-chain belay anchors the top. Despite not being visible in common photos, this finishing section provides a rewarding finishing challenge and exposure just shy of summit level.

Moonlight Rock’s position within the Estes Park Valley lends a quieter, focused experience away from busier climbing corridors, with Big Thompson Canyon’s character adding a deep sense of place. The climb’s relatively short length packs exciting moves into three clear pitches, balancing moments of tension with straightforward passage. Protection is straightforward—6 quickdraws will cover the sport bolts, supplemented by well-maintained two-chain anchors on every belay station. Rappels are convenient, sequentially descending 25, 60, and 50 feet back to the ground.

Planning your climb involves considering time of day and conditions; the south-facing wall benefits from morning sunshine warming the holds but can become exposed in the afternoon heat. The approach is manageable, with paths leading from parking areas in the Mary’s Bust zone. While the rock offers solid holds, the PG13 rating signals some moves will require focus, so climbers should be prepared for occasional runouts and maintain steady rope management.

In all, Dancing in the Moonlight stands as a balanced route for intermediate climbers stepping into multi-pitch terrain. It invites a sense of calm adventure beneath Big Thompson’s rugged formations, combining practical sport climbing with natural beauty and a touch of playful challenge. Whether seeking to refine skills or savor a scenic Colorado climb, this route offers dependable protection, engaging movement, and an intimate encounter with the rock’s character.

Climber Safety

While protection is mostly solid, the PG13 rating indicates serious attention to bolt clip positioning and careful rope management is necessary, especially on the first pitch’s crux section. Approaching rappels requires vigilance due to some worn chain anchors; inspect before committing.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches3
Length135 feet

Local Tips

Start early to enjoy cooler morning shade and less crowded trail access.

Wear sturdy climbing shoes with sticky rubber for the smooth granite surfaces.

Hydrate before the climb; the south-facing wall can heat up quickly in afternoon sun.

Double-check anchor placements on descent; some chains show wear from frequent use.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9-PG13 grade suits climbers ready for a moderate challenge that blends technical moves with occasional runouts. The crux midway up the first pitch feels a little stiffer than the grade suggests, demanding controlled movements and solid foot placement. Compared to other Big Thompson Canyon sport climbs, it's moderately sustained but fair, rewarding those who keep composure under pressure.

Gear Requirements

Bring at least 6 quickdraws to clip the bolts on all three pitches. Anchors are equipped with two-chain belays, enabling straightforward rappels of 25, 60, and 50 feet respectively. A standard 60-meter rope covers the route comfortably.

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Tags

sport climb
multi-pitch
south-facing
granite
Big Thompson Canyon
technical crux
two-chain anchors
Colorado