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Dam Crack: A Direct Tradition Route by Stagecoach Dam

Steamboat Springs, Colorado United States
dirty crack
wide crack
trad gear
single pitch
Colorado
Stagecoach Dam
crack climbing
Length: 55 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Dam Crack
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Dam Crack delivers a gritty single-pitch trad climb just south of Steamboat Springs. Master the finger to hand jams on a wide, dirt-lined crack that rewards steady technique and smart gear placements."

Dam Crack: A Direct Tradition Route by Stagecoach Dam

Dam Crack presents climbers with a straightforward, gritty crack climb that demands attention to technique and patience on less-than-perfect rock. Located just south of Steamboat Springs, Colorado, this single-pitch trad route cuts a broad, dirty crack that challenges you to move fluidly from finger jams to secure hand locks across its 55 feet. As you step onto the rock, the crack’s uneven texture invites tactile engagement, coaxing fingers and palms to find purchase in the irregular groove carved deep into the stone. Below, the terrain stumbles into forested patches, while above, open skies frame the climb, offering a quiet stage for focus. The approach from Stagecoach Dam is brief, making this a perfect fit for a half-day outing or a technical training session.

To protect your ascent, rack up with cams up to size #5 Camalot and bring several shoulder-length slings to manage gear placements effectively. The protection placements can feel a bit awkward as the crack widens and narrows, so be ready to adapt your rack and placement technique accordingly. The route shares its anchor with the nearby Dam Route Left, a convenient setup that streamlines lowering. Climbers often find themselves groveling through the lower section where dirt and debris accumulate, requiring careful footwork and steady commitment to stay balanced and efficient.

The route rates a solid 5.9, making it approachable for intermediate climbers who have a handle on crack climbing basics but want to hone skills on wider cracks and variable holds. The grade feels honest and fair, though the physical and precise nature of the moves demand focus. It fits neatly into the local crag scene where accessible, technical single-pitch climbs offer both challenge and quick access.

Access to the climb follows a short, easy approach from the Stagecoach Dam area. The trail is well-trodden but can be uneven with loose rock and dirt, so sturdy footwear is recommended. Expect about a 10-minute walk from parking coordinates at 40.29096 latitude and -106.6293 longitude. The climb faces generally southeast, catching morning sun and then shifting into shade by afternoon—early to mid-morning offers the best light and temperature conditions for the ascent.

Safety is a key consideration here. The crack’s width changes abruptly, and some placements will test both your gear and your ability to negotiate less secure spots. Loose rock and dirt in the lower groove mean you should double-check each hold and placement. Given the single-pitch nature, rappelling or lowering is straightforward but verify your doubled ropes or slings around reliable anchors before descending.

Dam Crack is a no-frills route that delivers genuine crack climbing with practical access and manageable terrain. It rewards climbers who bring attention to detail and patience, offering a crisp, tactile experience unlike polished sport climbs. Whether sharpening crack skills or chasing a solid Colorado outing, Dam Crack stands as a worthy highlight in the Stagecoach Dam climbing area.

Climber Safety

The initial section is cluttered with dirt and loose rock, requiring deliberate foot placement and cautious gear placement. Always verify anchor reliability sharing with Dam Route Left before rappelling. Avoid climbing after heavy rain to prevent slick holds and unstable debris.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length55 feet

Local Tips

Wear shoes with sticky rubber and a comfortable fit for crack climbing.

Approach is short but trail can be loose; watch your footing.

Early mornings bring cooler temps and better friction on the rock surface.

Double-check gear placements on the lower, dirtier section of the crack to avoid loose holds.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating on Dam Crack feels straightforward but honest—there’s no room for slack technique here. The crux comes in managing the evolving crack width, which tests your versatility with both finger and hand jams. Compared to other local climbs, it stands as a solid step up for trad climbers refining crack proficiency without the sustained pump of longer routes.

Gear Requirements

Bring cams up to #5 Camalot (c4) and several shoulder-length slings to navigate tricky placements in the widening crack. Anchor is shared with Dam Route Left for expedient lowering.

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Tags

dirty crack
wide crack
trad gear
single pitch
Colorado
Stagecoach Dam
crack climbing