"Dalke Route offers a demanding six-pitch trad climb on one of Rocky Mountain National Park’s most impressive buttresses. With sparse protection and a bold ridge line, it’s a rare alpine experience with commanding exposure and few crowds."
The Dalke Route rises with commanding presence on one of Rocky Mountain National Park’s tallest and most striking buttresses, offering climbers a serious alpine trad challenge far from the usual crowds. Situated on Cathedral Wall, this six-pitch climb tests route-finding, mental stamina, and crack climbing skills amid remarkably clean granite. Approaching is short and straightforward—just enough time to shed nerves while watching climbers head toward the nearby Petit Grepon. The route boasts a solid southern exposure that bathes you in warm sunlight even if the scrambling gets tense and the options for retreat narrow.
Pitch one sets the tone with an accessible chimney-crack-slab combination leading to a sizable ledge, giving some welcome breathing room before the route ventures into more uncertain territories. From there, pitches two and three thread through a broad, shallow dihedral that curves upward and rightward. This section demands care; the rock grips well but protection is inconsistent and protection placements are sparse on the steep 5.8 terrain. The exposure sharpens as you climb past the large belay stance, echoing the style of Petit Grepon’s classic pitches but with a steeper gradient and nearly solitude guaranteed.
The dihedral might tempt thoughts of plenty of gear placements, but the reality requires a calm eye and confidence in your anchor-building; the stone is pristine but the rack won’t always find a home. Pitch four confronts you with the imposing headwall, a test of nerves as you choose your path: head straight and face an intimidating direct assault or skirt right to a narrow ledge cunningly balanced by a coffin-sized block anchored precariously. This position is incredibly exposed, with the rock falling away below and the sky opening wide above.
Pitch five continues the mental game, beginning with a delicate crack that leads over loose blocks you’ll want to avoid by angling right. Somewhere in this stretch, a #1.5 Friend finds a precious slot to help secure your progress. The exposure tightens, and every move demands concentration as you inch toward the shoulder.
The final pitch is a breath of relief — easier climbing that carries you from the shoulder to the summit ridge where views unfold and the tension finally breaks. The Dalke Route is not for the faint-hearted; it requires solid trad experience, route-finding savvy, and a steady mind willing to manage scant protection on steep, exposed granite. Bring a rack heavy on smaller cams and wires—Aliens and RPs shine here—and take double ropes to offset pull and extend runners.
Expect an unforgettable alpine style adventure that challenges your climbing and your judgment equally, wrapped in the raw beauty and rugged character of RMNP’s high country. Preparation is key: start early, dress for warmth under the sun’s strong southern gaze, and trust your instincts on this demanding line. The reward is a route that feels both raw and refined, far above the bustle, with a sense of achievement that stays long after the descent.
Protection is limited throughout, with many sections featuring runout climbing on steep, polished granite. Loose rock appears near the upper pitches, so remain vigilant about footholds and gear placements. Route-finding challenges can lead climbers off line onto harder terrain, increasing risk. Desertion or turning back mid-route is difficult, so commitment after starting is advised only for confident, experienced climbers.
Start early to avoid afternoon storms and benefit from stable morning conditions.
Double ropes help manage rope drag on the shifting route line.
Be prepared for minimal fixed protection—skill in placing secure trad gear is essential.
Southern exposure provides warmth but sun protection is advised for long ascents.
Bring a full rack emphasizing small to mid-sized cams, including Aliens or similar, a variety of wires and RPs, and several runners to extend placements and mitigate rope drag. Double ropes strongly recommended due to wandering pitches and runout sections.
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