"Daddy’s Little Devil is a compact, overhung sport route on Pinch Me Wall that demands steady technique and bold moves. With clean falls and a hidden jug roof, it’s a perfect test for climbers craving a quick but intense challenge along California’s Redwood Coast."
Perched on the rugged face of Pinch Me Wall, Daddy's Little Devil offers an exhilarating 50-foot sport climb that blends technical movement with playful challenge. Situated within the Land Of The Lost area along California’s Redwood Coast, this route challenges climbers with an overhanging pitch that demands precise footwork and confident grabs. From the ground up, the climb invites you to engage a sequence of well-placed bolts, kicking off with face moves that navigate toward a small, jutting roof—facing off against the rock’s tricky angles and hidden holds.
As you press your hands against the wall, the climb unfurls into the steeper third and fourth bolts, exposing you to the thrill of a dynamic overhang. It’s here where Daddy’s Little Devil truly earns its name, daring you to push through the pump and trust your feet. The route’s fall potential is generous but clean, with much of the fall length suspended in open air—rewarding those who embrace the freedom of letting go. The sensation of hanging midair, almost weightless, with the coastal breeze brushing past, perfectly balances risk and exhilaration.
After conquering this devilish pitch, climbers can set up a top rope on the adjacent route, Daddy’s Little Deviate, which tackles the same roof but adds an extra layer of difficulty and length. This spot, framed by towering redwoods and raw volcanic rock, is not just about sending; it’s about feeling the raw pulse of the coast and the sturdy grip of granite under your fingertips.
Planning your climb here means preparing for a short but intense stretch of effort—ideal shoes with solid edging capability are a must, and chalk is your ally for those hidden jugs around the roof. The approach to the wall is straightforward enough for a quick warm-up before hitting the bolts, and with established five-bolt protection and chain anchors, the climb is well-suited for intermediate climbers ready to push their limits safely.
Timing your ascent is best during dry, mild weather when the rock is grippy, and the coastal humidity is low—the late spring to early fall months offer the most comfortable window. This route is a perfect way for climbers looking to enjoy technical movement with a taste of exposure and a sense of playful challenge, all wrapped in the fresh air and deep greens of California’s iconic Redwood Coast.
Falls off the steep section are generally clean, but be wary of swinging beneath the roof if you slip. Wear a helmet, and when setting up the top rope, ensure the chains and bolts are clipped securely to avoid any gear movement.
Approach early in the day to avoid the strongest afternoon sun on the wall.
Use sticky rubber shoes for precision on the overhung sections.
Bring extra quickdraws to extend the lower-off chains for safe top-rope rigs.
Check weather forecasts for dry conditions; the rock gets slippery when damp.
The climb is protected by five bolts finishing at a chain anchor equipped with quickdraw biners for lowering. A rope length of about 50 feet is needed. Chalk and shoes capable of edging on compact rock will make the moves smoother.
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