Cyanide Gully - Sunlit Climbing on Pine Creek Canyon’s Second Best

Bishop, California
sunny
cool weather
talus approach
mixed protection
single pitch
Length: 200 ft
Type: Mixed
Stars
Pitches
single pitch
Protected Place
Inyo National Forest
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Cyanide Gully offers a striking climbing experience on sun-drenched cliffs in Pine Creek Canyon. Its mix of trad and sport routes draws climbers looking for solid rock and clear views, best explored during cooler weather."

Cyanide Gully - Sunlit Climbing on Pine Creek Canyon’s Second Best

Cyanide Gully stands out as Pine Creek Canyon’s strong contender for prime climbing terrain, just a short stride beyond the well-traveled Pratts Crack. The approach itself hints at adventure — a careful crossing of a creek on a narrow beam of wood, then a steady climb up a sun-facing ramp that leads to the bold cliffs waiting above. This well-lit wall basks in sun all day, making it an ideal destination for cooler seasons when warmth is welcome without the blaze of summer heat.

The climbing here is a balance of styles — about as varied as Pine Creek’s own character. Some routes lean on traditional gear placements, others favor sport bolts, and several blend both methods, offering a flexible range of challenges. The rock quality is consistently beautiful, making each climb as much a pleasure to touch as it is demanding to master. While the talus field to reach the base demands careful footwork and attention, the access effort pays off with rewarding lines spread across the cliffs.

Elevation sits around 7,566 feet, placing Cyanide Gully within the high Sierra’s atmospheric charm and variable weather patterns. Though weather details on precipitation and temperature vary, visitors can count on the sun’s embrace throughout the day due to the gully’s favorable south-facing aspect. Cooler months invite comfortable climbing conditions, making this area a smart choice for spring, fall, or even mild winter days.

Classic climbs here offer a taste of the area’s character without overwhelming newcomers. Day Glo (5.9) and Escapade Buttress (5.9) provide solid introductions with their moderate difficulty and friendly ratings. Progressing upwards, routes like Feel tha Bern (5.10a) and Swallow Dance (5.10) bring more technical sport climbing into view, while tougher test pieces such as Orange County Choppers (5.11a), Love is a Dog Straight From Hell (5.11c), and Silverback (5.12a) offer stiffer challenges for seasoned climbers seeking finesse and endurance. The grade spectrum culminates with the demanding King of the Jungle (5.14a) which is a notable standout for experts craving high-end difficulty.

The approach, although straightforward, is not without demands. From the Pine Creek access point, continue 1.1 miles past the Pratts Crack turnoff. A careful creek crossing on a log beam transitions you to a short road and ramp that angles directly to the cliffs. Expect about a 30-minute hike on mixed terrain with loose rock beneathfoot, requiring stable shoes and a mindful pace.

Gearwise, the area calls for a versatile rack to cover both sport and trad opportunities. Bring a mixture of protection, including cams and nuts, to comfortably tackle the mixed routes. Since the terrain involves talus and some scrambling, sturdy climbing shoes with solid edging capabilities serve best along with a helmet to guard against rockfall in this active zone.

Downclimbing or rappelling from many routes is manageable but requires caution given the rocky and uneven descent paths. Plan your descent carefully to avoid loose sections; a rappel or controlled walk-off is preferable depending on your exit point.

Cyanide Gully sits within the larger context of the Bishop Area in the Eastern Sierra, a renowned hub for climbers and outdoor enthusiasts. This region, with its broad alpine views and rugged terrain, rewards those willing to explore beyond the most popular walls. The isolated feel of the gully offers a quieter climbing experience without sacrificing quality or variety.

For those planning a visit, keep in mind the gully’s all-day sun exposure invites climbing during the coolest parts of the year, while summer demands early starts or picking shaded corners near the approach. Navigation through talus is a reminder to travel light but prepared, focusing on technique and maintaining steady footing.

This slice of Pine Creek Canyon is a rewarding blend of sun, rock, and challenge—a place where climbers can test a broad range of skills while soaking in one of California’s less crowded yet highly satisfying climbing venues.

Climber Safety

Watch your footing during the talus approach, as loose rocks and unstable ground increase risk of slips. Helmets are strongly recommended to protect against rockfall, especially around popular route bases. Descents can be tricky—use anchors for rappels or plan your walk-offs carefully to avoid hazards.

Area Details

TypeMixed
Pitchessingle pitch
Length200 feet

Local Tips

Approach involves crossing a creek on a narrow wooden beam—take your time and watch your step.

Best climbed in cooler months since the wall gets sun all day and can be hot in summer.

Bring versatile gear for both trad and sport routes as many climbs offer mixed protection.

Plan descents carefully; some routes require rappelling or cautious downclimbing over loose rock.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:The grades at Cyanide Gully range widely from moderate to advanced climbs, mostly feeling consistent and fair for the Eastern Sierra region. The area has a reputation for solidly rated routes, offering both approachable 5.9 cracks and challenging 5.14a sport climbs without much sandbagging. Compared to other Pine Creek sectors, Cyanide Gully provides a balanced challenge for intermediate to expert climbers.

Gear Requirements

A mixed rack with both trad gear and sport draws is essential. Protection ranges from small to medium cams and nuts for trad lines, supplemented by fixed bolts on many routes. Helmets recommended due to talus approach and potential rockfall.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

sunny
cool weather
talus approach
mixed protection
single pitch