"Custer's Last Stand offers a hands-on introduction to Joshua Tree trad climbing, featuring a flowing crack system with technical moves and a memorable traverse. Perfect for those seeking a manageable yet satisfying pitch amid the park's iconic desert backdrop."
Custer's Last Stand presents a classic trad challenge set within the rugged embrace of Joshua Tree National Park’s Indian Cove. From the moment your hands find the wide crack just right of the approach boulder, you engage with a route that demands both technique and attention. The climb begins with an arc that leans slightly to the right, blending awkward hand jams with deliberate foot placements—each move unfolding over solid granite etched by time. At 5.9, it sits at the approachable end of the difficulty spectrum yet carries enough nuance to demand respect. The horizontal crack near the small ledge invites a subtle leftward traverse, a brief shift in rhythm that awakens the senses to the rock’s texture and contours. This lateral move, though short, requires steady balance and precise holds before settling into the wide inverted V crack—an inviting seam that narrows into a clean hand crack. This section feels like the heartbeat of the climb, where fun and focus collide, and the rhythm of climbing clicks into place. The top arrives not as an afterthought but as a reward for steady persistence, a quiet summit with views of the distinctive desert landscape stretching wide and welcoming. For those getting ready to tackle more demanding lines within Indian Cove, Custer’s Last Stand offers an ideal warm-up—both a physical primer and a chance to absorb the character of Joshua Tree’s granite. Staying aware of gear needs, move sequences, and the local setting will ensure a safe, fulfilling experience on this accessible, yet engaging crack climb.
The granite here is generally sound but keep an eye on the small ledge areas and the traverse section; loose dirt or sand can reduce friction and increase slip risk. The rappel anchor is solid but exposed—double-check knots and hardware before descending.
Start early to avoid the mid-day desert heat and take advantage of morning shade on the climb.
Wear sticky-soled shoes for secure foot jams in the crack system and sensitive friction holds.
Hydrate well before approach—the desert conditions can dehydrate quickly even on cooler days.
Check the rappel gear beforehand, as the anchor setups are shared but can be exposed on windier days.
Bring a full standard trad rack including stoppers and cams up to 4.5 inches. The route finishes at the rappel anchor shared with "A Good Day To Die" so plan for a straightforward rappel or walk-off descent.
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