HomeClimbingCurse Of The Furry Beast

Curse Of The Furry Beast at El Potrero Chico

Nuevo Laredo, Nuevo Leon Mexico
technical
sport
limestone
single pitch
cruxy
El Potrero Chico
dry climate
Length: 100 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Curse Of The Furry Beast
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Curse Of The Furry Beast distills El Potrero Chico’s rugged allure into a demanding 100-foot sport climb packed with two sharp cruxes. It’s a technical puzzle that rewards precise footwork and strategic rests, offering climbers a memorable, full-bodied challenge on solid limestone."

Curse Of The Furry Beast at El Potrero Chico

El Potrero Chico’s Las Estrellas Main Wall throws down with Curse Of The Furry Beast, a compelling sport climb that tests your mettle right from the get-go. Spanning a crisp 100 feet with a single pitch, this route demands focus and stamina, featuring two distinct crux sections separated by a handful of smaller, technical moves offering brief relief. The wall’s clean limestone surface feels solid underfoot, yet the holds often require precise positioning rather than brute strength, making it a true puzzle for anyone flirting with the 5.12a grade.

From the base, the climb greets you with a vertical sweep of rock that immediately challenges footwork and hand placement. The first crux arises relatively early, marking a series of tricky moves where the sequential holds don’t always present themselves clearly. It’s a sequence that rewards patience and sharp eyes: rushing through leads to burned energy, while thoughtful, deliberate movement creates opportunities for those coveted rests.

Between the main cruxes, several smaller, nimble transitions demand consistent technique, ensuring there’s no time to fully relax until the second crux. Here, the rock angles shift subtly, pushing climbers into more dynamic positions where confidence in your sequence reading pays off. The route’s beta isn’t straightforward, and the space for subconscious movement shrinks. Climbers will find that the ability to read holds and modulate effort is as critical as raw power.

Located within the vast wilderness of Northern Mexico’s El Potrero Chico, Las Estrellas Canyon presents a commanding backdrop that balances rugged adventure with accessible climbing infrastructure. The route’s sport nature means your rack will be lighter—generally 12 to 14 quickdraws—and you’ll appreciate the reinforced bolts along the way. However, the route demands commitment; casual climbers should respect the grade and plan on treating this as a serious project, or at least a tough onsight ascent for the stronger 5.12 climbers.

The approach to the wall is straightforward, a short hike from a well-established staging area with ample parking and facilities close by. This popular climbing destination offers a mix of sun and shade on the wall, depending on the season and time of day, so timing your climb mid-morning or late afternoon can make your effort more comfortable.

Weather-wise, the dry northern climate promotes great friction and consistent conditions, but climbers should come prepared for heat exposure and bring ample water. Lightweight clothing and sun protection remain essentials. Given the route’s technical nature and the physical demands of its sustained moves, a solid warm-up on nearby easier climbs is highly recommended.

Curse Of The Furry Beast is not just another climb; it’s a compact testpiece that forces climbers to sharpen every skill in their kit. The combination of sharply defined cruxes, rewarding rests, and an evocative setting cements its appeal as a route that commands respect and offers a genuine sense of accomplishment upon topping out. Whether you’re chasing a challenging onsight or carefully piecing together a send, this route embodies the balanced adventure of El Potrero Chico’s legendary walls.

Climber Safety

Watch for sharp holds at the crux sections that can be tough on the skin and require controlled movement to avoid slips. The approach to the wall is straightforward but prolonged exposure to sun calls for thoughtful hydration and sun protection. Always double-check your quickdraw placements and stay mindful of pump buildup in sustained sequences.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Aim for mid-morning or late afternoon climbs to avoid peak sun on the wall.

Bring at least 2 liters of water—heat and dry air can quickly dehydrate.

Warm up on nearby moderate sport routes to prepare your fingers for the technical cruxes.

Study the crux beta beforehand; reading holds mid-climb is tough without prior visualization.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.12a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.12a rating feels true to form with two sustained crux sequences that stretch your movement precision and endurance. Many climbers find the grade solid—neither undersold nor exaggerated—which places it firmly among El Potrero Chico’s more technical challenges. Compared to nearby climbs, it sits at the mid-to-upper end of difficulty, demanding cleaner footwork and careful rest management.

Gear Requirements

This route is bolted for sport climbing, requiring 12-14 quickdraws to safely clip through the sequence. The bolts are well-maintained, but climbers should bring plenty of draws to match the sustained nature of the climb.

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Tags

technical
sport
limestone
single pitch
cruxy
El Potrero Chico
dry climate