5.11a, Sport
Squamish
British Columbia ,Canada
"Currently Coagulating is a concise 50-foot sport route in the Sea to Sky corridor offering a dynamic crack start and a sustained crux bulge. This climb strikes a balance between raw power and deft technique, perfect for climbers ready to test their limits on quality granite bolted protection."
Currently Coagulating stands out in the Sea to Sky corridor as a compact yet demanding sport climb that blends dynamic movement with straightforward protection. Set against the rugged backdrop of The Crest near Squamish, this route challenges climbers with its distinctive crack start and a powerful crux bulge that tests strength and focus. The climb begins by pulling into a left-leaning crack that requires commitment and precision, quickly shifting your attention to a broad, rounded feature offering solid, positive holds. This transition between styles keeps the flow engaging from the first move.
After mastering the crack and jugs, a brief no-hands rest teases your endurance before the route unfolds into a bulging crux through long, controlled moves. The key here is resisting the temptation to use the shake jugs on the adjacent "Who's the Bosch" line—maintain upward momentum on a slightly more direct line to the fifth bolt for the cleanest sequence. The anchor is well protected and easy to reach, providing a safe end to a route that balances power and technique within a concise 50-foot pitch.
The approach to Currently Coagulating is straightforward, located in the vibrant climbing hub of Sea to Sky, which offers a rich variety of rock faces with moderate access times. Expect a short hike through mixed forest trails, where the whisper of Douglas firs shifts with the breeze, leading to the base of The Crest’s sport sector. Climbers should prepare for variable weather typical of coastal British Columbia; early spring through fall brings the most consistent dry conditions.
Gear recommendations are simple yet crucial: five quickdraws easily cover the bolted protection, while sturdy climbing shoes and a chalk bag equipped for sustained grip help surmount the challenge. The short length and accessible anchor make it ideal for climbers looking for a focused power workout or a stepping stone toward harder lines in the area.
Local insights highlight that timing your ascent to avoid midday sun enhances comfort, as the wall can heat quickly in direct sunlight. Also, bring enough hydration given the sometimes warm microclimate around The Crest. With an average star rating of 2.6, the climb attracts a crowd seeking a spirited test of finger strength without committing to a multi-pitch venture. While technical, the moves here reward the attentive climber, delivering a memorable introduction to hard sport routes in this scenic pocket of British Columbia.
For those visiting Sea to Sky, Currently Coagulating offers an approachable yet resolute challenge, combining the physical demands of crack climbing with the finesse required for sustained bulges. The route's setting—framing sharp granite edges with views of coastal forest—reminds you that adventure is never far from reach. Whether you’re honing your technique or chasing your next 5.11, this line demands respect and rewards effort with a clean, satisfying send.
Watch your clipping approach at the fourth bolt near the crux to avoid 'shake jug' traps. Rock quality is solid but the bulge requires controlled movements; fall potential here suggests maintaining tension before committing to the top section.
Avoid using the shake jugs on the adjacent Who's the Bosch to prevent losing the clean line.
Best climbed in spring through fall for optimal dry conditions; the area can be damp in winter.
Start early or late in the day to avoid direct sun heating the wall.
Hydrate well—though short, the intensity of the moves can be deceiving.
This route features five well-placed bolts plus a chain anchor. Bring at least five quickdraws to confidently clip through, and be prepared for sustained gripping with chalk and sturdy shoes.
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