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Culo De Negra: Sharp Sport Climbing on Las Animas Wall

Monterrey, Mexico
sport climbing
tufa
face climbing
single pitch
technical
dry climate
exposed
morning shade
Length: 100 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Culo De Negra
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Set along the crisp rock of Las Animas Wall, Culo De Negra challenges climbers with a powerful 100-foot single pitch centered around a distinctive 'ass' tufa. This route blends technical face climbing with bold movement, rewarding focus and skill in a stunning northern Mexico setting."

Culo De Negra: Sharp Sport Climbing on Las Animas Wall

Culo De Negra carves a striking line on the imposing Las Animas Wall, offering climbers a focused and demanding challenge that perfectly balances technical face climbing with bold movement. Positioned a short distance left of a solitary tree and just right of scattered blocks at the wall’s western edge, this 100-foot single-pitch route draws the eye—and the hands—toward a sharp, distinctive tufa that dominates the climb’s midsection. The initial section demands precision to reach a high first bolt located just to the right of a sinuous tufa formation. From here, the route pivots left, opening into a demanding 40-foot sequence ascending the so-called "ass" tufa, where the rock’s texture alternates between slick faces and assertive holds that invite careful foot placement and steady breathing.

Above this distinctive feature, climbers find an opportunity to regroup with a full rest, regaining focus for the final section, which unfolds as engaging face climbing leading confidently to a secure anchor. The rock quality throughout is solid, with sharp edges contrasted by pockets and tufas that provide both challenge and relief. Protection is well spaced but straightforward, relying on approximately a dozen quickdraws to keep the effort supported without dulling the thrilling exposure.

This route suits experienced sport climbers comfortable on steep and technical face terrain, rewarding those who bring a blend of power, finesse, and patience. The wall faces generally northeast, catching morning light and remaining pleasantly shaded as the afternoon wanes, making early starts advisable to avoid heat during warmer months. Las Animas Wall sits within the rugged, semi-arid landscape of Northern Mexico’s Nuevo Leon, a region known for its stark desert beauty, sweeping vistas, and climbing routes that push boundaries without overwhelming with lengthy approaches.

Access is straightforward: a brief trail leads in from the nearby base area, crossing rocky ground that demands sturdy footwear and a steady pace. The approach takes roughly 20 minutes from the trailhead with GPS coordinates accurate enough for easy navigation. Given the region’s dry climate, hydration is critical, and climbers should bring ample water and sun protection even on cooler days.

Safety on Culo De Negra rests on respect for the single-pitch nature of the climb—there is no room for error when clipping the high first bolts or negotiating the technical tufas. Helmets are strongly recommended to guard against rockfall, and patience is key along the route’s technical transitions, where powerful moves meet subtle holds. Descent is gained via a comfortable walk-off to the right side of the wall, well-marked and free of exposure hazards.

Las Animas Wall itself is one of Nuevo Leon’s standout climbing areas, offering a mixture of sport routes with crisp protection and challenging lines framed by dramatic natural formations. Though remote, it is accessible enough to see regular use, rewarding visitors with quiet solitude and expansive desert skies. Climbers exploring this region will find Culo De Negra a memorable push of skill and nerve, a route that asks for full engagement with every move while offering stunning rock and setting the stage for a rewarding day outdoors.

Climber Safety

While the route is well bolted, the spacing around the first high bolts demands confident clip execution. Watch for loose rock near the base, and remain aware of the sharp tufas. Wearing a helmet is advised to minimize risk from falling debris.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat on the northeast-facing wall.

Wear shoes with sensitive edging capability for the varied rock texture.

Carry plenty of water due to the dry environment and limited shade on the approach.

Helmets are recommended to protect from occasional rockfall near the lower section.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.12a
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.12a, Culo De Negra offers a solid challenge with a crux focusing on sustained technical moves on tufas and face holds. The grade reflects a consistent effort rather than a single intense crux, with protection that helps manage risk but calls for precision. Compared to other routes on Las Animas Wall, this climb sits firmly in the upper-intermediate to advanced range, appealing to climbers ready to push their technique on steep, pocketed terrain.

Gear Requirements

Bring a dozen quickdraws to clip all bolts smoothly—this route relies on sport protection spaced to support bold moves on technical tufas and face holds.

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Tags

sport climbing
tufa
face climbing
single pitch
technical
dry climate
exposed
morning shade