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Cruel Shoes: A Technical Ascent on The Chief's Grand Wall

Squamish, Canada
trad
multipitch
face climbing
technical
runout sections
Squamish granite
classic route
Length: 600 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
6
Location
Cruel Shoes
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Cruel Shoes offers a demanding yet rewarding climb on The Chief’s lower face, blending technical face climbing and rich trad protection over six pitches. Perfect as a standalone challenge or a gateway to the Grand Wall, it demands precision and composure."

Cruel Shoes: A Technical Ascent on The Chief's Grand Wall

Cruel Shoes charts a compelling and dynamic route up the lower face of The Chief in Squamish, British Columbia. This six-pitch traditional climb covers 600 feet of crisp, technical face climbing at a solid 5.10 level, consistently testing your skills on immaculate granite. As you push upward, the rock's texture invites confident hand and footwork, while the route’s varied features—corners, chimneys, and exposed face climbing—keep the momentum engaging and physically demanding. The climb ends at the base of the Split Pillar, a perfect launch point for continuing onto the iconic Grand Wall, but Cruel Shoes stands strong on its own as a worthy objective.

The approach begins near the base of The Chief, placing you immediately into a quiet corner just right of Apron Strings. This first pitch, often tackled via a chimneying and stemming sequence, offers a sharp introduction with sustained moves rated 5.10b. For climbers seeking a slightly more polished challenge early on, the alternative start via Apron Strings leads to the same belay with face moves showcasing precise footwork and subtle crimps.

Pitch two veers out onto a steep face featuring a bolted crux that demands both nerve and refined technique, elevated by a long runout section on moderate terrain, where controlled movements and mental composure are key. The third pitch sends you traversing nearly half a rope length to a right-leaning corner system; a moment of careful sequencing here is essential, especially in the final moves where stepping down cautiously to clip a bolt keeps the crux at manageable difficulty. This pitch balances challenge and protection thoughtfully.

Following that, pitch four ascends a sustained, leaning corner with a neat crux leading to a secure belay, skillfully linked with pitch five. The fifth pitch is memorable and committing, beginning with a challenging move that opens onto a ledge guarded by a pin and bolt. From here, climbers can choose two lines: a steeper, runout 5.10+ section or a slightly less technical but still exposed 5.9 variation that veers left. Both lines demand solid anchor management and a steady head.

The final push, pitch six, snakes upward and right through a delicate crescent-shaped corner, entirely bolted and generously protected. This pitch eases for taller climbers but maintains technical interest while guiding you toward the ledge beneath the Split Pillar where climbers often transition. The descent options include rappelling with two ropes or continuing onward to the Grand Wall.

Gear-wise, a light rack suffices, with cams up to a #1 Camalot, though additional finger-sized protection will complement climbers opting for the Apron Strings start. The rock quality is exemplary, with solid placements and fixed gear where rock features thin out, fostering a safe but genuine experience. This route belongs in a shortlist of classic multipitch face climbs across North America, sharing company with favorites like Fiddler on the Roof in Red Rocks and Birds of Fire in Rocky Mountain National Park.

Approaching Cruel Shoes requires straightforward access with a well-marked trail leading to the base of The Chief. Expect a moderate hike through forested terrain filled with the sounds of the nearby river, adding a natural soundtrack that both soothes and stimulates focus before the climb. Early morning starts are preferred to avoid the afternoon sun, which relentlessly beats down on the granite in summer months.

Whether you are aiming to take on Cruel Shoes for its own rewards or as your gateway to the Grand Wall, this route offers an exceptional mix of technical challenge, heady exposure, and classic Squamish granite. Approach prepared with solid trad skills, embrace the route’s complexity, and enjoy a climb that demands your full attention while rewarding you with the quiet satisfaction of movement harmonized with the mountain.

Local tips include managing gear choices carefully to balance protection and weight, timing your ascent to beat heat and crowds, and staying vigilant on runout sections that reward thoughtful climbing over quick moves. Remember to pack ample water, as the climb involves long, sustained efforts where staying hydrated directly impacts focus and stamina. With good preparation and respect for the rock, Cruel Shoes delivers a memorable multipitch experience that tests your technical capacity and leaves a lasting impression.

Climber Safety

Be mindful of runouts on pitch two and pitch five, especially on the steeper sections where falling could lead to significant swing or ground hazard. The rock is generally solid but inspect placements carefully, particularly on the leaning corners. Approach in dry conditions to avoid slippery holds.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches6
Length600 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat and sun exposure on the face.

Bring extra finger-sized cams for the Apron Strings alternative start.

Hydrate well; the climb’s length and intensity demand sustained energy.

Focus on pacing and resting wisely during runout sections to maintain composure.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10d rating reflects sustained technical difficulty with a mix of face and corner climbing. The route includes some runout sections that require confident movement, particularly on pitch two's crux. The grade feels true to the challenge, with a few crux moves that push well into solid 5.10 territory without overstating difficulty. Compared locally, it holds its weight alongside other iconic 5.10+ multi-pitches in Squamish.

Gear Requirements

A light rack ending at #1 Camalot is sufficient. Additional finger-sized cams are recommended if approaching via Apron Strings. Fixed bolts provide security on runouts and crux pitches.

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Tags

trad
multipitch
face climbing
technical
runout sections
Squamish granite
classic route